A Day Exploring the Isle of Mull
A day by car, from Tobermory to Lochbuie Stone Circle.
Written by Graeme Johncock
The Isle of Mull is undeniably one of Scotland’s most incredible places, with everything you could possibly want in an island. There are historic castles, stunning scenery and fantastic food to experience, as long as you’re brave enough to drive the narrow roads! It’s somewhere I return to several times every year and this would be my perfect day.
The route
Before you go
Book accommodation nearby
If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.
The nearest of ours is Fern Cottage in Croggan, 6 miles away. Sleeps 4.
Tobermory
An attraction
Tobermory is the perfect place to start the day, strolling along the picture-perfect waterfront. The town is relatively modern, founded in the late 1700s, but there are stories that go back even further. In 1588, a Spanish ship from the Armada limped into the bay for repairs, lending soldiers to the chief of the MacLeans in return for shelter. Even once the ship was ready, MacLean wasn’t so happy to let them go and the Spanish vessel mysteriously exploded, sinking into the depths, allegedly full of treasure that’s still never been found! Today, you’ll find lots of independent shops selling gifts, books, chocolate and great local food!
About 5 min by car
Aros Park Waterfalls
An attraction
Just outside Tobermory, you can lose yourself in nature with a walk through the woodland of Aros Park. The Aros Burn crashes from one large waterfall into a series of tumbling falls, shaded by thick foliage. It’s a place that feels ancient, where the rocks and branches are thick with moss and the air full of birdsong.
About 40 min by car
Duart Castle
An attraction
One of Mull’s blockbuster attractions, Duart Castle is the ancestral home of Clan MacLean and to me it’s everything that a Scottish castle should be. Perched up on a cliff above the sea, it’s got a strong clan connection and its walls are packed with stories. While it was ruined during the early 1700s, it was rescued and restored around 100 years ago and open to the public during the tourist season. The history of the MacLeans is laid out as you walk through the rooms, but the most spectacular part is the view from the battlements. On a clear day, you can see across the Isle of Lismore, right up Loch Linnhe towards Glencoe. It’s obvious why this spot was chosen for a castle in the 13th century!
About 25 min by car
Old Post Office, Lochbuie
Food and drink
At the end of a long, winding road, Lochbuie is one of my favourite, quieter spots on Mull with one of the best cafes on the island. The Old Post Office serves up great local produce, with venison, seafood and great soup usually on the menu. The coffee is particularly good and the huge windows give great views out to sea to enjoy even on a wet and windy day.
More about Old Post Office, Lochbuie
Moy Castle
An attraction
Not far along the shore stands Moy Castle, in ruins but still proudly standing tall beside the sea. This was once home to the MacLaines, cousins to the MacLeans of Duart, and they have plenty of stories of their own to share. In the 15th century, Ewen of the Little Head rebelled against his father Iain the Toothless to take control of the clan. During the battle that followed, Ewen ended up losing his head as he charged around the field and his horse kept on galloping before his body eventually slumped off beside the road. It’s said that the headless horseman can still be seen riding around Mull when a member of the MacLaines is due to die!
More about Moy CastleAbout 5 min by car
Lochbuie Mausoleum
An attraction
Follow this beautiful stretch of coastline, passing a wide sandy beach where you might see either Highland Cattle or wild goats grazing. Eventually, across a grassy field, you’ll see the Lochbuie Mausoleum on a low mound surrounded by a cluster of trees. Centuries ago, this was the local chapel, but it’s since been transformed into a small mausoleum for the MacLaines of Lochbuie. Inside, not only will you find elaborate tombstones dating back to the 1700s, but colourful stars set into the slate roof to create bright beams of light inside.
More about Lochbuie MausoleumAbout 5 min by car
Lochbuie Stone Circle
An attraction
Taking a different fork on the return path leads you to the start of the trail towards the Lochbuie Stone Circle. Follow the white stones across an often-boggy field and you’ll soon reach these ancient monoliths. They aren’t particularly tall, but they’re perfectly formed and still impressive after thousands of years. Nobody knows for sure what the stones were used for, maybe a ritual site, way of tracking the seasons or even just a grand gathering place. While there are standing stones all around Scotland, not many are in as spectacular a spot as this, with Ben Buie rising in the distance.
More about Lochbuie Stone Circle
Where to stay
Make it a weekend
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Photographs by Dom Simpson, Vince Vinnyp, Tatton Photography and Lionel Peyruc via Google