The Otter Hide – A Winter Day on Rum Between Two Boats

The walk

The walk starts at Rum's ferry terminal, on the south side of Loch Scresort, where the boat from Mallaig puts you ashore. No visitor's car goes to Rum, so leave it at Mallaig: the West Bay car park charges and is five minutes' walk from the ferry, and the East Bay one is free and 10 to 15 minutes away. The path to the otter hide runs through the woods along the south shore of the loch. The island's community trust gives it as 30 minutes there and back, steep at the start and gentle after that, on a good path that isn't sealed. It passes the ruins of some of the island's early settlements. In winter the trees are bare, the boulders and old walls are thick with moss, and a small footbridge crosses a burn. The hide is a timber hut with a turf roof at the water's edge, and inside it a long window looks straight out over the loch. Sit quietly and give it time.

Otters and seals are often seen on Loch Scresort, and porpoises and dolphins sometimes come in, so bring binoculars. Keep dogs under control at all times. There are no toilets at the ferry terminal. The nearest are by the old pier in Kinloch, 10 minutes' walk away, and in the village hall. Rum has no café. The village shop sells coffee, hot soup, fries and sandwiches, but don't count on it on a winter day: bring food and a flask. Notices of deer stalking are posted in the village, and stags should be given a wide berth in the rut, around October. On CalMac's winter timetable, from 19 October 2026 to 25 March 2027, this works as a day trip only on a Tuesday or a Thursday.

The boat leaves Mallaig at 9.50am and lands on Rum at 11.15am. It goes on to Canna, calls at Rum again on its way back and leaves for Mallaig at 2.25pm, arriving at 3.50pm. Foot passengers check in 20 minutes before the boat sails, so be back at the terminal by 2.05pm. That is about 2 hours 50 minutes ashore, enough for the hide and a look at the village, and there is no later boat. Miss the 2.25pm and the next sailing to Mallaig is two days away. No boat runs on Tuesday 1 December or Tuesday 2 February. Book the crossing ahead: CalMac's Mallaig office, on 01687 310240, option 2, takes bookings until 4pm on the working day before. Rough weather can cancel the ferry for days in winter, so look at CalMac's service status page that morning and stay at home on a doubtful forecast.