Harris – A Greek Temple on the Atlantic Shore of Rum
This is a walk for the long days from April, and for someone staying on Rum.
It is 16 miles there and back, about eight hours on foot, and in winter there isn't the daylight for it. A rough estate road crosses the island from Kinloch to Harris, a shingle bay under the Rum Cuillin, where the Bulloughs of Kinloch Castle lie in a stone temple facing the Atlantic.
- Time
- About eight hours' walking: 16 miles, or 26 km, there and back on a rough estate road, by the island community trust's figures.
- The path
- A rough estate road all the way, long and without shelter.
- Where to start
- Leave the car at Mallaig, where the West Bay car park charges and is five minutes' walk from the ferry and the East Bay one is free, 10 to 15 minutes away. No visitor's car goes to Rum.
- Set off
- Set off from Kinloch early in the morning, from a bed on the island.
- When to go
- From April to September, for someone staying on Rum: 16 miles and about eight hours on foot want long daylight, and in winter it is dark by about four. Read CalMac's summer timetable, which follows the winter one after 25 March 2027, before fixing dates.
- Dogs
- Under control at all times: cattle and ponies graze at Harris.
- Children
- 16 miles on a rough road: a walk for grown walkers.
- Toilets
- None on the road. By the old pier and the campsite in Kinloch, and in the village hall. None at the ferry terminal.
- Before you set out
- From April to September, for the daylight: in winter it is dark by about four. Stalking notices are posted in the village. The mausoleum is in the care of the Bullough Trust.
The walk
The walk starts at Kinloch, Rum's village, where the boat from Mallaig lands. No visitor's car goes to Rum, so leave it at Mallaig: the West Bay car park charges and is five minutes' walk from the ferry, and the East Bay one is free and 10 to 15 minutes away. Harris is on the far side of the island, at the end of the estate road that runs west and south from Kinloch through the middle of Rum. The island's community trust gives the walk as 16 miles, or 26 km, there and back, and about four hours each way. In clear weather the peaks of the Rum Cuillin stand over the road for much of it. It ends at a shingle bay on the Atlantic shore, where Highland cattle and Rum ponies graze. On the grass above the shore stands the Bullough mausoleum, a small Greek temple of stone columns, roofed, and open at the sides. Sir George Bullough, of Kinloch Castle, lies here with his wife, Lady Monica, and his father.
An earlier mausoleum, cut into the hillside and lined with Italian mosaic, was blown up after a remark a guest made about it. A piece of its back wall, with the family's arms, can still be seen above. The mausoleum is in the care of the Bullough Trust. There is no shelter on the road, nothing to buy and no toilet beyond Kinloch, so carry food and water for the whole day and set off early. The track is rough enough that the community trust recommends a mountain bike over any other kind. Notices of deer stalking are posted in the village: read them before you go. Keep dogs under control at all times. Eight hours of walking will not fit a winter day, when it is dark by about four, and on the winter ferry a day visitor has at most 2 hours 50 minutes ashore.
Even in summer, take it as a walk from a bed on the island. Places to stay in Kinloch include Ivy Cottage Guest House, which gives its guests dinner, bed and breakfast and a packed lunch, the Rum Bunkhouse, with kitchens and a log burner, and camping cabins. Book a bed on the island before you book the boat. Rum has no café. The village shop sells coffee, hot soup, fries and sandwiches. CalMac's winter timetable runs to 25 March 2027, with boats to Rum on a Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Read the summer timetable that follows it before fixing dates. Book the crossing ahead: CalMac's Mallaig office, on 01687 310240, option 2, takes bookings until 4pm on the working day before, and foot passengers check in 20 minutes before the boat sails.
If it rains
Eight hours on an open road with no shelter is a poor idea in rain, and in cloud the Rum Cuillin can't be seen at all. Keep this for the clearest day of a stay and have a shorter walk ready for the others.
Before you go
Book accommodation nearby, on the island, first, then the crossing with CalMac's Mallaig office, on 01687 310240, option 2.
For further reading, before you go.