Smoo Cave – The Great Sea Cave and its Waterfall
About 0.5 miles on foot.
Smoo Cave opens in the limestone cliffs on the eastern edge of Durness, a sea cave so big its mouth makes you feel tiny, with a river pouring through the roof of an inner chamber in a roaring waterfall.
A short walk down from the road and along the free walkway takes you to it, and a hot chocolate at Cocoa Mountain by Balnakeil warms you up after.
- Time
- About an hour: ten minutes' walk each way and time in the cave.
- The path
- Steep steps down the side of the inlet from the car park and a footbridge over the burn; no place for a pushchair or a wheelchair.
- Where to start
- The Smoo Cave car park beside the A838 on the eastern edge of Durness.
- When to go
- The walkway into Smoo Cave is free and open every day; Cocoa Mountain opens every day, 9am to 6pm, from spring to the end of November.
- Dogs
- Dogs aren't admitted on the boat tour.
- Children
- Under-4s can't go on the boat tour; hold small hands on the steps.
- Before you set out
- Even a little rain, or a strong south-westerly on a dry day, can flood the cave and stop the tours.
The walk
Park in the Smoo Cave car park beside the A838 on the eastern edge of Durness. From there it's about ten minutes' walk to the waterfall chamber: steps lead down the side of the narrow inlet, a footbridge crosses the burn, or stream, and you walk into a cave mouth some 50 feet high. A walkway goes on into the inner chamber, where the Allt Smoo falls through the roof into a dark pool.
The walkway is free and open every day of the year; wear sensible shoes, as the path down is steep with steps, and it's no place for a pushchair or a wheelchair. From April to October, Smoo Cave Tours takes visitors further in by boat every day, from 11am to 4pm in spring and autumn and 10am to 5pm from June to August. It costs £15 an adult and £5 for under-16s at the time of writing.
The tour is cash only, as there's no signal in the cave; the nearest cash machine is in the Spar by Sango Sands campsite. Under-4s and dogs can't go on it, and after even a little rain, or in a strong south-westerly, the water runs too high and there are no tours that day.
If it rains
The walk is short and the cave mouth is a shelter, but the steps get slippery and heavy rain stops the boat tours; Cocoa Mountain has tables inside.
Afterwards
5 min by car
Cocoa Mountain Balnakeil
Hot chocolate
It's 5 minutes' drive west through Durness to Balnakeil Craft Village and Cocoa Mountain, the pale blue building with the white portico, where chocolates and truffles are made by hand. Have its rich hot chocolate, which the makers simply call The Best, with a croissant, a slice of cake or the rocky road made with ginger biscuits. It opens every day from 9am to 6pm until the end of November and shuts over the winter. Sit inside, or outside on a fine day, where dogs are welcome. If it's shut, the Smoo Cave Hotel, back by the cave, says it serves meals all day and opens all year: ring 01971 511227 to check the kitchen.
Before you go
Book accommodation nearby
If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.
Where to eat
Cocoa Mountain Balnakeil, a café in Durness.
For further reading, before you go.
Photograph by Ania Piaskowska via Google