Fetlar's Coast Walks – The Snap, Tresta Beach and Phalaropes
A day by car, from Hamars Ness and back.
Written by Laurie Goodlad
Known as the Garden of Shetland, Fetlar is the smallest of Shetland’s trio of North Isles, and with summer fields awash with thick carpets of wildflowers and vast swathes of scented meadowsweet, it’s not hard to see why.
Fetlar is a two-ferry hop from the Mainland. Visitors take the ferry from Toft, in the north of Shetland, to Yell, before driving 17 miles through the island to reach the Gutcher terminal, where another ferry takes guests on a 25-minute journey to Hamars Ness in Fetlar. As there are only several ferries in and out of the island each day, it’s recommended that visitors spend a little more time in the islands, exploring, walking and enjoying the fantastic wildlife opportunities that this island offers.
With stunning landscapes, fertile valleys and diverse geology, Fetlar is a little slice of heaven.
Fetlar has a population of around 60 residents, and the island is served by a small shop and cafe, an Interpretive Centre and a public hall that houses the island’s caravan and motorhome site.
Despite offering visitors a remote and picturesque getaway, Fetlar has not been without its share of problems over the years. During the 19th century, the landlord (laird) evicted many tenant farmers from their homes and land to make way for large-scale sheep farming and the island never really recovered. The clearances undoubtedly left their scar on the community, mostly in the form of ruined houses and homesteads; homes once filled with happiness, warmth and laughter were reduced to gloomy ruins with empty hearths.
Today, Fetlar is a haven for walkers and wildlife lovers alike. The island is quieter than neighbouring Unst yet shares the same dramatic coastal walking and wildlife. For those searching for a more peaceful retreat, Fetlar has got you covered.
One day in Fetlar is not near long enough to make the most of all this island has to offer. Visitors to Fetlar are invited to slow down, and once you scratch the surface of this tantalising haven, you’ll wish you’d stayed longer.
The Lodge is set on the shore at Houbie, in the shadow of the grand house of Leagarth. This idyllic self-catering will reset you and leave you feeling refreshed and relaxed.
Fetlar Hall Campervan and Caravan Site offer hard standing for motorhomes and caravans and fully-accessible showers and bar facilities at the weekend.
Aithbank Camping Böd offers budget glamping-style accommodation and overlooks the beautiful bay at Aith. This house was once home to Fetlar’s best-loved storyteller, Jeemsie Laurenson.
Gord is the only guest house in Fetlar, with four bedrooms and a home-cooked breakfast. They also offer dinner and packed lunches to guests.
Eating out is very limited in Fetlar. The main option is the small cafe at the shop, which is open a few hours a day and offers a simple menu of toasted sandwiches and filled rolls, hot and cold.
The Interpretive Centre also offers hot drinks and snacks. The centre is open seven days a week between May and September.
Shops – you may want to stock up before you go, ensuring you have plenty of food to sustain yourself during your stay. The Fetlar shop is open seven days a week from 1pm to 4pm during the summer season (mid-April to mid-September) and Tuesday to Saturday (11am to 2pm) for the remainder of the year. The island shop also acts as a post office.
Visit Lisa’s Leatherwork studio, where you’ll find a selection of leather goods, including knitting belts, bags and harnesses.
Top tip: Check the shop opening hours before your visit and consider stocking up on essentials in Yell before you leave. Please note that there is no fuel station on the island, so arrive with a full tank – although there is an EV charging point available at the Interpretive Centre.
The following are a couple of options for a 1-day itinerary for the island of Fetlar.
Of the two, this is Laurie Goodlad’s day of walks, in her own words.
Fetlar, like much of Shetland, benefits from an incredible coastline punctuated with stacks, geos and natural arches, hewn out by the sea surrounding it.
The route
Before you go
Book the car ferry from Toft to Ulsta
Book the car both ways and check the times: on the council's timetable from 5 October 2026, the 9.45am from Toft makes the 11.30am to Fetlar, and the 8.40pm from Ulsta meets the booked 7.40pm back from Fetlar (the 6.30pm, if you take the 4.40pm).
Book the car ferry from Gutcher to Fetlar
Book the car both ways, and the 7.40pm back from Hamars Ness before 6pm, as it sails Monday to Saturday only if booked: her walks need more time than the 4.40pm, the last boat that sails unbooked, allows.
The day
Lace up your boots and hike this way
38 min at the wheelAbout 18 miles
The Snap Walk
A walk
One of the most rewarding walks is from Funzie – pronounced Finnie – to The Snap, a coastal walk along Fetlar’s dramatic east coast from the boulder beach at Funzie to the impressive natural arch of The Snap. This walk can be extended into a circular route to the Wick of Aith and back to the Mires of Funzie, where tired legs can spend time trying to spot the elusive red-necked phalarope. The circular walk will take about 4 hours and covers 5 miles (8 km) along a pathless route around the coast.
About 6 min by car
Houbie to Tresta Beach
For a less challenging walk, the coastal route between Houbie and Tresta takes in the spectacular views of Lambhoga and the archaeology – including an Iron Age broch and Viking soapstone carvings hewn out into the cliff faces. Houbie is the main settlement in Fetlar, where you can kick back and enjoy the Interpretive Centre’s displays once you’ve finished this walk. The shop, also in Houbie, is an excellent place to pick up an island picnic – or a refreshing bottle of beer to enjoy on the stunning sands of Tresta Beach. Also in Houbie, on the small sandy beach that fronts the community, is a 19th-century stepped pool system designed to encourage trouts to breed in the burn. Reaching Tresta Beach is like approaching paradise – a sweeping sandy beach backed by the kirk and Papil Water. Tresta Beach, flanked by Lambhoga’s steep sides, is a picture-perfect spot for a picnic, affording uninterrupted views across the Wick of Tresta. This walk is 5 miles (8 km) and, from Tresta, follows the road back to Houbie. If you have two cars, reduce the distance by parking one at Houbie and one at Tresta – or thumb a lift back!
About 4 min by car
Watch the red-necked phalaropes
Fetlar is rich in wildlife, and as well as the usual birds and seals that you would expect to see in Shetland, Fetlar is a fantastic place to look out for red-necked phalaropes. Red-necked phalaropes are one of the UK’s rarest breeding birds, and Fetlar has over half the breeding British population of the bird. In the summer months, you can often watch them feeding on the Loch of Funzie or view them in their breeding site on the Mires of Funzie from a viewing hide. Fetlar is an excellent place to spot the enigmatic and often elusive otter. Shetland has the highest density of Eurasian otters in Europe, and Fetlar’s coastline is a great place to view them. The best time to see otters is several hours on either side of low tide when the wind is blowing onshore, ensuring that your scent isn’t carried to the otter, who has a highly-sensitive sense of smell and scares off easily. The greatest advice for visiting Fetlar is to ensure that you spend more than one day on the island, as a few hours between ferries is never nearly enough.
If it rains
This is a day of cliff-top and coast walks, so in rain, mist or a strong wind leave out the Snap Walk and the cliffs. The Fetlar Interpretive Centre in Houbie is open from May to September, with the island's history, birds and geology, and the shop and cafe in Houbie serves soup, filled rolls and home bakes. Fetlar Kirk at Tresta is always open, with a display of its own.
Make it a weekend
More days out in Shetland.
More days by Laurie
