Glencoe Lochan – A Canadian Love Letter

Many people view Glencoe as only a place to stop briefly and marvel at the iconic Three Sisters while passing through. They might think that walking here is only for those adventurous hikers heading up to Bidean nam Bian or the Pap of Glencoe. Fortunately, there’s another option. A gentle stroll for all abilities and with a tender love story behind it.

Amidst the landscape of soaring mountains and heather, the serene Glencoe Lochan is a welcome change. If the woodland walk feels a little out of place in this area of the Highlands, then that’s because it is. This entire area was created as a little slice of Canada by Lord Strathcona in the 1890s. 

Born in Forres, Donald Alexander Smith didn’t start off life with a silver spoon in his mouth. His father worked as a saddler, but Donald was lucky enough to benefit from a school education. After being offered an apprenticeship as a lawyer, the young man looked set for an ordinary, respectful life. That was until his uncle, the explorer John Stuart, returned to Scotland from Canada and filled the boy’s head with wild stories of adventure. 

Aged 18, Donald set off across the ocean to make his fortune with the Hudson’s Bay Company. There he met the beautiful, free-spirited Isabella Hardisty. The pair were immediately drawn to each other but there was a problem. Isabella already had a son with another man and Donald wasn’t somebody who would welcome a scandal. In the end, even this figure of respectability couldn’t ignore his heart.

Donald took in Isabella’s son as his own and the couple were soon married with another child of their own. Over the years, he rose through the ranks in the company, becoming incredibly wealthy in the process. He even made a name in politics and from his humble beginnings, Donald was created Baron Strathcona and owner of Glencoe Estate. 

Donald built Glencoe House and moved back to Scotland with his family. The couple loved each other dearly but the new Lady Strathcona loved one thing above all others, her Canadian homeland. Even amongst the majestic beauty of Glencoe, with her husband at her side, she longed to see the trees and lakes of Canada again. 

Donald was crushed to see the love of his life so unhappy in Scotland. Instead of simply moving his family back to Canada, he tried his best to bring Canada to them. In a grand romantic gesture, Lord Strathcona created the beautiful scenery around Glencoe Lochan, planting the area with trees shipped over from British Columbia. 

Sadly, Donald’s efforts were in vain. Even this picturesque landscape wasn’t enough to cure Isabella’s homesickness. Before long the couple left Glencoe, heading back to the Canadian mountains. It may not have been enough to convince Lady Strathcona to stay but today this Canadian love letter is a perfect alternative to the more strenuous routes in the area.

Walkers can take their pick from three routes either around Glencoe Lochan, through the soaring woodland or a steeper path up the hillside.

Words by Graeme Johncock, photograph by Daniel Casson