Walking On Kerrera
Written by Graeme Johncock
Scotland has around 100 inhabited islands, some large and some small. The Isle of Kerrera is definitely on the smaller end of the scale. It’s the long, low bit of land that makes Oban such a good harbour and while seen by thousands every year, few make the effort to visit. Kerrera feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of Oban and it’s quickly become one of my favourite islands to escape to for a day’s walking!
Catch The Tiny Kerrera Ferry
The main ferry to Kerrera leaves from Gallanach, just a few minutes south of Oban. It’s a tiny boat and the only vehicles allowed are for island residents. If there’s any more than 12 people waiting, the ferry will go back and forward until they’re all over. Don’t worry if you don’t make the first cut, the trip takes less than five minutes each way and, in my opinion, standing there with the wind rushing past and waves spraying up is all part of the experience!
Follow the Southern Loop
Kerrera is split into two halves and while both can make for good walks, it’s the southern section that’s most interesting to me. Following the track takes you first round the large Horse Shoe Bay with beautiful views back to the mainland. Keep your eyes open for the little teapots and cups on fence posts leading the way!
Admire Dail Righ
On the other side, an inconspicuous fenced area, probably filled with sheep is known as Dail Righ – King’s Field. It's said that this is where King Alexander II decided to start taking back the Hebrides from the Norse in 1249. They had been taken by Norway over a century earlier, but Alexander felt strong enough to begin his conquest. That night, with his fleet anchored in the bay, the king was visited in his dreams by saints Columba, Magnus and Olaf. They all warned him not to land on Kerrera, but he ignored the prophetic visions and after stepping ashore at this spot, he had a fit and died!
Climb The Iron Age Fort
After skirting round Little Horse Shoe Bay, keep your eye’s open for a rocky outcrop across an open grassy field. It doesn’t look like much from the ground, but that’s an Iron Age fort that’s evidence of Kerrera being inhabited for over 2000 years! It’s a short but steep hike to the top and once there, the low stone walls around the perimeter are unmistakable. The views up and down the Sound of Kerrera are spectacular from here, you can see why the island’s early residents picked this spot.
Grab Lunch From The Kerrera Tea Garden
The path then moves away from the coast, heading inland and over a ridge where you’ll spot one of Kerrera’s big attractions. It’s not a castle or waterfall but a tiny tea garden. Some people make this whole trip just to visit here and the soups, sandwiches and coffee are well worth it! Just be aware that it’s only usually open between April and September.
Explore the Ruins of Gylen Castle
As you carry on south, around a small cliff, the spectacular ruin of Gylen Castle comes into view. Impossibly perched high on a crag above crashing waves, it’s an impressive icon of the island. A short hike will take you up to the tower house and it’s possible to go inside and explore what’s left of the tiny tower. Gylen is a fairly new castle by Scottish standards, only built in 1582 by Clan MacDougall. It helped to guard access through the Sound of Kerrera but would only be inhabited for 65 years. In 1647, the Royalist MacDougalls were besieged by a Covenanter army and forced to surrender and watch the castle be destroyed after their water supply ran dry!
Browse At Balliemore Farm Shop
Just before arriving back at the ferry pier, you’ll spot the Balliemore Farm Shop. There’s usually locally raised meat to buy here as well as crafts, sweets and ice creams for hot days. It’s the perfect way to support the local community of this special wee island before heading back home!
Places to stay on the route
No.26 By The Sea is the easiest fit if you want to keep everything centred on Oban. You can finish a day on Kerrera, come back over on the little ferry, and be back in town quickly for dinner, a walk along the waterfront, or an early night before heading out again. It suits the practical side of this itinerary too, cutting down on driving and making the start simple if you want to be at Gallanach early, especially in busier months when Oban is lively and the ferry can get a small queue.
If you’d rather stay a short drive out, Stormhouse has two separate properties that work well for turning the walk into a quieter overnight, with more space to spread out and reset after being on the go all day. They’re well placed for reaching Oban without feeling stuck in the middle of it, which can make the return from Kerrera feel like a clean switch into downtime. Inverlonan leans in the same direction, set back from the coast in a glen setting that makes mornings feel unhurried. It’s a good choice if you want Kerrera to be part of a wider couple of days in this area, mixing island time with walks and drives on the mainland either side.
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