Travelling the Kintyre Coastline
Written by Graeme Johncock
If you enjoy getting off the beaten track in Scotland, the Kintyre Peninsula is definitely for you. This part of Argyll deserves a lot more attention, but because it takes a little more time to get to, it took me until last year before even I visited! I was blown away by how much Kintyre had to offer in just a single day’s journey.
Tarbert Castle
Begin at the very top of the peninsula in Tarbert, a harbour town protected by a prominent, but sadly ruined, royal castle. Only a small remnant remains of what was once an enormous fortress, guarding not just passage up Loch Fyne, but also across land. The name Tarbert literally means “Drag Boat” and it’s where sailors could drag their vessels across a narrow strip of land to save travelling all the way round Kintyre! The castle has a long history, but most people climb up here just for the view. Be aware that there are usually sheep roaming, so keep dogs on leads.
Skipness Castle
First built by the powerful MacSweens in the early 1200s, Skipness Castle is a much more impressive sight! The walls are just a stone’s throw from the water and along with Lochranza Castle on Arran, they guard passage through the Kilbrannan Sound. It’s grown over the centuries, falling first into the hands of the MacDonalds and later the Campbells and even in its ruined state, it’s remarkably intact. Through the summer months, you’ll be able to climb right up onto the tower for spectacular views of Arran!
Skipness Chapel
A short stroll along a grass path brings you to Skipness Chapel, moved here away from the castle by the MacDonalds. It’s much larger than the average church from this time, showing just how important the castle once was and you’ll find ornately carved graveslabs of important residents from the past. As you walk back from the chapel towards the car park, make sure to pop into either the smokehouse or seafood cabin to sample some local delicacies!
Take A Walk At Carradale
As you head south, the views of the Arran mountains are stunning, but keep your eyes on the narrow winding road! Once you arrive in Carradale, it’s time to stretch your legs and you’ve plenty of choice. You could wander the small village, down to the harbour and beach or head into the trees of Crow Wood. If you’re feeling really energetic, you could head to the very top of Cnoc nan Gabhar – Deer Hill and back down in around two hours.
Beinn an Tuirc Distillery
You’ve earned a drink after all of that and thankfully, Beinn an Tuirc Distillery isn’t far away. This is where Scotland’s “other” national spirit is made – delicious gin! This is a small, family run operation, powered by hydroelectricity so not only is your tipple tasty, but it’s sustainable too! You can book onto a guided tour of the distillery, get in depth with the gin school or just enjoy a taste in the café. This is also a great spot to enjoy lunch with soup and a sandwich!
Saddell Abbey
In a little hollow at the meeting of roads, the 12th century Sadell Abbey seems very removed from the world. Founded by the famous warlord Somerled, who carved himself out a kingdom from parts of Scotland under Norse control, it shows he was as pious as he was violent. There’s not a lot left to see of the abbey building, but the collection of carved gravestones protected in a shelter are amongst the best in Scotland. To me, these are an incredibly evocative link to the past, a clear sign of the warrior culture in the West Highlands and they’re enough to get any imagination running wild!
Saddell Bay & Castle
A short walk away leads you towards Saddell Castle, once home to the Bishop of Argyll and actually built using stone from the abbey ruins. Today, it’s a holiday home, but you can walk past it straight onto the sweeping sand of Saddell Bay. You might recognise it from the famous “Mull of Kintyre” music video, but I can’t promise a pipe band will appear on the beach behind you…
Explore Campbeltown
Known as the Victorian Whisky Capital of the World or sometimes “Whiskyopolis”, Campbeltown is one of the most underrated places in Scotland. It might not be home to dozens of distilleries anymore, but it’s packed full of character and history. Walk past the 650-year-old town cross to explore the streets and independent shops like Coorie Doon or Kintyre Larder.
Glen Scotia Distillery
It wouldn’t feel right to visit Campbeltown and not enjoy a dram, it is what made the town famous after all! My favourite is undoubtedly Glen Scotia, a place that truly represents the spirit of the town. Even if you’re not in time for a tour, it’s worth stopping into the shop to try a sample and pick up a bottle. It’s the perfect way to reward yourself after an epic day exploring the Kintyre coast!
Sign in with Google
Sign in with Email