Tom na Gruagaich – Up Coire nan Laogh and Back

The walk

The usual way up Tom na Gruagaich starts at the car park by the stone bridge over the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil, on the road from Torridon village to Inveralligin. A stalkers' path crosses the moor and climbs the narrow corrie of Coire nan Laogh to the summit, and the way back is the same. By our map it is about 6.3 km (4 miles) there and back, with about 870 metres of climb. Allow about 4 to 5 hours, more with stops, in poor weather or under snow. The Scottish Mountaineering Club's guidebook, as Mountaineering Scotland gives it, puts the way up at 3 km and 880 metres of climb. The summit is 922 metres up, and the car park only about 40 metres. The way is a path over the moor, then a steep, worn and loose path up the corrie to a summit on the edge of cliffs.

Tom na Gruagaich is the lower of Beinn Alligin's two Munros. Many walkers go on north to Sgurr Mor and round over the Horns of Alligin, but that is a different, harder undertaking. The way down to the col below Sgurr Mor is a steep, narrow rocky crest, the guidebook says. Steven Fallon finds some scrambling on it, with drops into Toll a' Mhadaidh Mor. The Horns are a Grade 1 scramble, exposed in places. Mountaineering Scotland warns that scrambling can be the most dangerous of all mountaineering activities, and that grades hold only for dry summer rock. This walk goes up to Tom na Gruagaich and back by the corrie, and no further.

The car park is on the south side of the road, just west of the bridge, almost 3 miles from Torridon village as the guidebook gives it. By our map it has room for about 20 cars. Steven Fallon says it struggles to cope with walkers' cars in summer, so come early. No toilets are published at the car park: the community's plan says Fasaig, the village of Torridon, and Kinlochewe both have public toilets and a shop. The National Trust for Scotland has owned Torridon since 1967 and looks after the path, Steven Fallon says.

Before you set off, check the mountain forecast: the Mountain Weather Information Service's Northwest Highlands forecast covers Torridon. Carry a map and compass and know how to use them: Munro Magic says the way needs map reading and the ability to navigate with a compass. Visibility can change markedly with the cloud level, it warns. The Torridon Mountain Rescue Team says its rescues can be among the most technically demanding in Scotland. Stalking can take place even where no notice is posted, so follow any signs.

From the car park cross the road and take the path on the west side of the bridge, heading north-north-west. It starts among undergrowth and rhododendrons, and after wet weather it can be peaty and muddy, Steven Fallon warns. About 700 metres out it crosses a high deer fence by a stile. Beyond the fence the path steepens a little and climbs over heather and grass, twisting up short sections of rocky ground. Na Fasreidhnean, the buttress that flanks the corrie, rises on the left.

About 1.8 km out, about 450 metres up by our map, the path meets the Alltan Glas and turns up into Coire nan Laogh. This is the narrow corrie scooped out of the south end of the mountain. The path climbs the east side of the burn in zigzags, worn and loose, and it soon steepens. By our map the corrie climbs about 40 to 45 metres in every 100 metres for most of its length. About 2.8 km out, about 800 metres up, the path crosses the burn, with no bridge. Stream levels can rise markedly in one day, Munro Magic warns: if the crossing looks unsafe, turn back.

Above the burn the path reaches a small cairn on the col between the summit and the south-west ridge that runs out to Na Fasreidhnean, about 3 km out. Here turn sharp right, east, for the last few strides to the summit, about 3.2 km out. The stone trig point stands on rock on the edge of cliffs that plunge into Toll a' Mhadaidh Mor, the great corrie of Beinn Alligin. Keep well back from the edge, above all in wind or mist.

Beinn Alligin is a steep-sided mountain, its slopes terraces of red sandstone worn round, which makes hand and footholds difficult, Munro Magic says. It warns of steep slopes, stony and rocky ground and crags on or near the ways up, and of crags near the summit. Coming down the corrie is slow, and one walker found it really hard on the knees: take care on the loose path, above all when it is wet.

In mist, mind the way off the summit. Go back south-west the few strides to the col and its small cairn, then turn left, south, down into the corrie. Do not follow the ridge north towards Sgurr Mor, or the south-west ridge out to Na Fasreidhnean. If the cloud comes down, the wind rises or anyone is tiring, turn back by the way you came.

Under snow Tom na Gruagaich is a winter mountain: the steep corrie and the summit cliffs then need winter gear and the skill to use it. Munro Magic asks winter walkers to check the snow conditions with the Scottish Avalanche Information Service. Its Torridon area centres on the mountains round Beinn Eighe and Liathach and does not name Beinn Alligin, but no name does not mean no risk. Thunderstorms can come in fast: one walker's account of being struck down by lightning on Beinn Alligin is among Mountaineering Scotland's near misses.

The way down is the way you came, back to the col, down Coire nan Laogh and across the moor to the road. In an emergency call 999 or 112 and ask for Police and Mountain Rescue, Mountaineering Scotland says. Give a six-figure grid reference and a named feature if you can. Phone signal in the Highlands is often patchy: to be able to text 999, register first by texting the word register to 999.