From Fort William To Skye Via Glenelg
Written by Graeme Johncock
Lots of people visit the spectacular Isle of Skye every year. Most take the bridge there, many use the large boat from Mallaig, but I like to arrive in style on the tiny Glenelg ferry! It’s more than just a unique way to travel, it’s a slice of history itself and the journey to get there is one of the best in Scotland.
Cille Choirril Church
Leaving north from Fort William, it’s a short detour to one of my favourite spots. Built in the 15th century by a chief of Clan Cameron, the church at Cille Choirril has roots that stretch back almost a thousand years earlier. Not only does it have an immense feeling of historical importance, but the view from the top of the hill is incredible. Best of all, you’ll probably have it to yourself!
Well of The Seven Heads
On the banks of Loch Oich, an unusual obelisk marks a bloody episode of history. In the 17th century, seven men murdered the chief of the MacDonalds of Keppoch, but Lord MacDonnell of Glengarry refused to do anything about it. The chief’s kinsman Iain Lom MacDonald was made of sterner stuff, eventually getting revenge on the murderers. As he brought their heads to Glengarry, he stopped to wash them in a spring here which became known as the Well of the Seven Heads!
Invergarry Castle
A short distance away, the ruins of Old Invergarry Castle stand in the driveway of a more modern hotel. You can’t get inside, but you can peer through the barriers to see where Iain Lom was heading. Bonnie Prince Charlie stayed here in 1746 in the days after the disastrous Battle of Culloden!
Ratagan Pass viewpoint
Turning off the main road to Skye, you’ll begin to climb over the Ratagan Pass so prepare for a steep, winding road! Make sure to stop at the top for an amazing view across Loch Duich to the Five Sisters of Kintail. Legend says there were once seven daughters of the Chief of Kintail who lived here. The youngest two sailed away with Irish Princes who promised to send their brothers back to marry the other five. The remaining sisters waited so long, a wizard turned them into mountains so they would remain beautiful and admired until the Irishmen came for them!
Lunch At Glenelg Inn
After descending into Glenelg, reward yourself with a delicious lunch at the Glenelg Inn. It’s a very traditional spot with incredible food and if it’s a chilly day then they might even have the fire blazing to warm you up.
Dun Telve & Dun Trodan Brochs
Don’t rush straight for the ferry, there are two very good reasons to explore some of the glen first. Dun Telve and Dun Trodan are two of the best preserved brochs in Scotland. These are roughly 2000 year old stone towers, built entirely without mortar, with a staircase spiralling between and outer and inner wall. We don’t know much about how brochs were used, but there aren’t many better places to imagine them coming back to life than right here.
Bernera Barracks
If you wondered where much of the stone from the brochs went, then look no further than Bernera Barracks. Built in the 1700s to guard the main ferry crossing to Skye, this was a government base designed to defend against Jacobite risings. It’s in a hazardous state so you can only look in from the outside, but it’s a reminder that Glenelg wasn’t always considered off the beaten path!
Glenelg Ferry
I’ve taken the Glenelg Ferry hundreds of times, but it never gets old. This is the last operating turntable ferry in Scotland, with space for around 6 cars but thankfully the crossing only takes around 10 minutes, so you rarely have to wait too long. Once loaded up, the entire platform with the cars on is spun around by hand to make sure the vehicles can drive off again! Usually, the ferry dogs are running around helping with the ropes and there’s plenty of other wildlife to spot as you make the short crossing. Seals are common, seabirds even more so and I’ve even spotted eagles from time to time. Once you’re on the other side, it’s a winding road to the main road, but you’ve arrived in Skye in style!
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