Exploring Northwestern Corners From Shieldaig To Ullapool

Written by Graeme Johncock

Exploring Northwestern Corners From Shieldaig To Ullapool

You should never be in a rush when travelling through the northwest of Scotland. Not only is it dangerous, but taking the quick road often means missing out on some of the most spectacular places! Instead of taking the main road between Shieldaig at the corner of the Applecross Peninsula to Ullapool, I always try to travel along the coastal route, exploring all the nooks and crannies. It takes longer, but it’s definitely worth the time!

1

Loch Torridon Viewpoint

This is real mountain country and the viewpoint looking across the water to the Torridon range is just incredible. The peaks and ridges stretch out like they’ve been specifically arranged for a picture above the calmness of Loch Torridon. It’s a dramatic start to the day amongst some of Scotland’s oldest mountains.

2

Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve Visitor centre

As you enter the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve, it’s well worth stopping at the visitor centre to learn about your surroundings. It’s free and packed with information about the local wildlife, forests and mountains, with displays and videos to help tell the story. There are some trails that start from the centre for anybody feeling energetic, but I usually end up just watching the birds from the wooden hide!

3

Loch Maree Viewpoint

Just a couple of miles north, a large car park allows you to get down to the water of Loch Maree. One of Scotland’s largest freshwater lochs, it was named after St Mael Rubha, who founded a small chapel on one of the islands. Those islands aren’t easy to reach and they can’t be seen from here, but one is very special, being the only island in a loch which has its own loch with an island!

4

Victoria Falls Achnasheen

Although much further from the water, the best place to take in a view of the islands of Loch Maree is from Victoria Falls. It’s a short walk from the car park to the viewing platforms around the waterfall, named after Queen Victoria who visited in 1877 and depending on how much rain we’ve had, the falls can be pretty impressive. During the queen’s visit, she was taken out to Isle Maree, where she hammered a penny into a holy tree there!

5

Gairloch Museum

I never get tired of small, heritage museums telling the story of their local area and Gairloch has a great one! While this area of the Highlands is full of impressive mountains, sweeping beaches and vast lochs, it’s more than just a picture postcard. Museums like this remind us of the people who have lived and worked here throughout history, from ancient times to recent days. The attached café, Am Bard, is a great spot for lunch too!

6

Mountain Coffee Co

I can rarely drive through Gairloch without stopping at the Mountain Coffee Co for a great flat white and a cake. There’s even a wee bookshop to browse while you wait!

7

Mellon Udrigle Beach

This corner of Scotland isn’t just a place of mountain and lochs, it’s also blessed with some of the best beaches in the country. There are plenty for you to choose from, but my pick is usually Mellon Udrigle. The view of the distant mountains is incredible and it’s usually a little quieter than those beside the main road.

8

Inverewe Garden

Amidst the peat bogs and rocky hills, famous for wild winds and pouring rain, you might not expect to find as incredible a garden as Inverewe. Prepare to be amazed at this lush slice of heaven in the Highlands. Created over 150 years ago, Inverewe is packed with exotic plants that thrive in this surprisingly mild climate. The Gulf Stream keeps Scotland’s west coast from ever getting too cold and with a lot of care, you can create something like this for visitors to wander through at their leisure!

9

Gruinaird Bay Viewpoint

Take a quick stop at the viewpoint overlooking Gruinaird Bay. The scenery is spectacular and there’s a story about the large island you can see just off the coast. Locally known as Anthrax Island, it was used during World War II to test biological warfare and although now safe, I wouldn’t want to risk a visit.

10

Corrieshalloch Gorge

The final stop of the day before Ullapool is the most impressive by far – as long as you’re not afraid of heights. A meandering walk through the woods leads to a bridge crossing Corrieshalloch Gorge, a plunging drop cut by the River Droma. The suspension bridge has an intended wobble and is only safe for six people at a time, but those brave enough to cross can gaze down on the Falls of Measach below. A little further along, a platform juts out above the mile-long gorge to look back at the picturesque bridge. Hard to believe that its Gaelic name translates as Ugly Hollow!