Enjoying More Than Just Whisky On Islay
Written by Graeme Johncock
Islay is well known as Scotland’s whisky island with ten working distilleries, but there’s so much more to find here than just the bottom of a bottle. This place was once home to the Lords of the Isles, so it’s packed with historical sites to visit alongside stunning beaches, open moors and soaring cliffs. It’s safe to say that the “Queen of the Hebrides” is an island that has a wee part of my heart!
Kildalton Cross
Following the road towards the southeastern corner of Islay, almost to the very end of the road, takes you through a wild, beautiful part of the island to one of its many hidden gems. Standing in the same spot for over 1200 years, the Kidalton Cross is an incredible example of Islay’s importance in Scottish history. Covered in carvings of Biblical scenes and weaving patterns, it’s found just outside an early 13th century church which protects a number of West Highland warrior graveslabs. Surprisingly, when the foundation of the cross was repaired in the 1800s, the remains of two burials were found beneath!
Dunyvaig Castle
A short distance along this rugged coastline, a side road takes you down to Lagavulin Bay and the remains of Dunyvaig Castle. Once a powerful stronghold of the MacDonald Lords of the Isles, its name means Fort of the Galleys and it’s easy to imagine a fleet of warships sheltering here before a daring raid. The chief of the MacDonalds was forced to hand Dunyvaig over to government forces in the early 1600s, but his son Ranald, unhappy with losing his inheritance, retook the castle. It was fiercely fought over until eventually the land was given to the Campbells who left it to ruin and moved to Islay House! Makes sure to have a good look at the water between Dunyvaig and Lagavulin Distillery – I’ve never failed to spot some seals swimming around keeping their eyes on me when standing there!
Have A Dram At Laphroaig
While there’s more than just whisky on Islay, I wouldn’t dare spend a day on the island without at least one dram! Of course, there’s plenty to choose from, but I like to stop in at Laphroaig Distillery. Founded in 1815, there’s both a museum and a bar inside to enjoy if you don’t have time for a tour. Just be aware, this is one of the smokier whiskies you’ll find in Scotland!
Explore Bowmore
On the banks of Loch Indaal, the wee town of Bowmore is the largest on Islay and well worth a quick wander about. The poker straight streets are a tell-tale sign of a planned village, built in the late 1700s to clear space further around the loch for Islay House! Pop into the Celtic House for some local crafts or the Gaelic Heritage Centre to learn some local history and culture.
Lunch at the The Oyster Shed
From Loch Indaal, head to the shores of Loch Gruinart for some local delicacies. Don’t worry if raw shellfish aren’t your thing, there’s a lot more on offer at the Islay Oyster Shed. Of course, there’s plenty of fresh seafood but also plenty on offer for all diets!
Kilnave Chapel and Cross
Skirt around the edge of the loch until you spot the ruins of Kilnave Chapel down beside the water. It’s a short walk across the field to reach the walled off graveyard – somewhere with a tragic tale to tell. In 1598, Lachlan Mor MacLean invaded Islay with 1000 men in an attempt to wrest control of the island from the MacDonalds. It was a fierce fight, but the outnumbered MacDonalds got the better of the MacLeans, killing Lachlan Mor in the process. While most of the invaders made it to their ships, 30 men were forced to take shelter in Kilnave Chapel instead. If they thought that holy ground would help them, they were sorely mistaken, as the MacDonalds set fire to the church with everybody still inside! It’s a story that makes a lonely place feel just a little bit more eerie!
Finlaggan
Finish the day at one of Scotland’s most historic spots that rarely gets the attention it deserves. Finlaggan was the main power base for the Lords of the Isles and walking out to the ruin-covered island takes you back centuries. It’s well worth taking the time to explore the visitor centre first to help you make sense of the remains. At the height of their power, the MacDonald Lords controlled around a third of Scotland and councils of clan chiefs would meet to discuss land grants, disputes and future raids. It’s an unassuming place today, but its importance to Scottish history can’t be overstated. If there’s one place on Islay that shouldn’t be missed – this is it!
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