A Roadtrip Through Highland Perthshire
Written by Graeme Johncock
When it comes to spending a day in Highland Perthshire, you’re spoilt for choice! While people are often in a rush to head up the main road towards Inverness, I prefer to take my time and explore some of the scenery and history in this special part of Scotland. You might be surprised at what you find down a few of those side roads!
Birnam Oak
On the banks of the River Tay, often overlooked for it’s larger neighbour Dunkeld, there’s one thing very special about Birnam. A short walk from the main road takes you to the historic Birnam Oak. This gnarled tree is around 600 years old, with a hollow trunk to hide in and sticks holding up the heavy branches. You might recognise the name, since this is one of the last survivors of great Birnam Wood, immortalised in Shakespeare’s Macbeth. While not quite old enough to have met that King of Scots, there’s every chance that Shakespeare saw it as a sapling during his theatre tour of Scotland!
Discover Dunkeld Cathedral
Dunkeld isn’t a large town, but it’s got a lot to offer. Aside from the shops, eateries and scenery, it’s Dunkeld Cathedral that draws my attention. One of the oldest and most historic churches in Scotland, there’s an added surprise hidden inside. Right at the back of the church, behind a wooden screen, lies the tomb of Alexander Stewart – the Wolf of Badenoch. The son of King Robert II, his effigy lies in full armour – fitting for his violent reputation!
Killiecrankie Visitor Centre
This area of Perthshire is often called “Big Tree Country” and there are plenty of woodlands perfect for a wander. Killiecrankie is one of my highlights, with the River Garry tumbling through the pass and an epic story to go with it. In 1689, an outnumbered Jacobite army won a great victory here against the odds, charging down the steep hillside and crashing into the government army. In the rout that followed, one of the government troops escaped by leaping over the river at a place now known as Soldier’s Leap.
Blair Castle
The ancestral home of the Dukes of Atholl and Clan Murray, Blair Castle is a shining white guardian of this crucial route through the Highlands. The oldest part of the castle dates all the way back to the 13th century and there are centuries of history to uncover as you walk through the rooms. Outside, take a stroll through the gardens and you might even catch glimpse of the only private army in Europe – the Atholl Highlanders!
Lunch at House of Bruar
The House of Bruar is famous as a luxury mall, but aside from the shopping, there’s a great restaurant for lunches. Local produce goes into delicious food with an especially good carvery on Sundays.
Queen’s View
For sweeping vistas, there aren’t many that can compete with Queen’s View – made famous by Queen Victoria although often claimed to be named after one of Robert the Bruce’s wives. Looking out along the length of Loch Tummel, the pointed summit of Schiehallion can be seen clearly.
The Scottish Crannog Centre
A beautiful drive takes you to a fascinating reconstruction on the banks of Loch Tay. A visit to the Scottish Crannog Centre lets you wander through an Iron Age village, learning all about the life, traditions and crafts of Scotland’s ancient people. Crannogs were wooden roundhouses built either on stilts or artificial islands in lochs around Scotland, only accessible via an easily defended walkway. A replica is currently under construction after an earlier version tragically burned down a few years ago.
St Mary’s Grandtully
St Mary’s at Grandtully is one of my favourite hidden gems in all of Scotland. As you first approach, the building looks like an old cow byre, but step through the door and you’re met with something extraordinary. This old chapel dates back to the early 1500s, but it’s the 1636 ceiling that rightfully gets all the attention. Clad in wooden panels, painted with heraldic images, birds of paradise and Biblical scenes, it’s one of only two survivors in all of Scotland! It’s the perfect example of never judging a book by its cover.
Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier
A sweet treat is the perfect way to end the day and the Highland Chocolatier more than has that covered. Frequent winners of “World’s Best Truffle”, the selection of flavours is amazing. Aside from those, my personal favourite is the Dark Chocolate Frozen Ganache. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!
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