A Book Lover’s Guide to Edinburgh
Written by Shawna Law
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“Edinburgh, Scotland's history is in her every grey stone, with her grave and kindly people, and her heritage of lore and learning.” - E. Sillar
Edinburgh has been a source of boundless inspiration for many writers and poets over the years. In fact, its contributions to the world of literature are so rich and well-recognised that in 2004, Edinburgh became the world's first UNESCO City of Literature. Furthermore, it hosts the largest public celebration of words in the world – the much-loved annual Edinburgh International Book Festival.
To help you get better acquainted with Edinburgh’s literary landscape, we've put together a two-day itinerary that will take you on a journey through Edinburgh’s streets and point out brilliant independent bookshops and libraries as well as literary landmarks and hidden gems.
9.30am: The National Library of Scotland
Let’s begin our day at the National Library of Scotland, Scotland’s largest library, which is home to over 14 million printed items. As well as its role as a library, there’s also a café, gift shop, evolving exhibition space and a permanent exhibition titled “Treasures of the National Library of Scotland”. The library’s fascinating permanent exhibition showcases Scotland's collective memory. A few items which are currently on display include a hand-written love letter by Scotland's Bard Robert Burns to Mrs Agnes Maclehose which includes his heartfelt song of parting, 'Ae fond kiss', which is now one of his most well-known love songs; Scotland's first printed books; and Harry Potter in translation, an impressive collection of Harry Potter books translated into various languages.
10.30am: Breakfast at Deacon Brodie’s Cafe
Located in Brodie’s Close, Deacon Brodie’s Café is a cosy and homely nook that offers a range of delightful breakfast options from cooked breakfasts to organic Scottish porridge. The cafe is of literary interest as it has ties to one of Edinburgh’s most infamous sons, Deacon William Brodie, whose family once resided in the close. Deacon Brodie’s double life is thought to have inspired Robert Louis Stevenson’s story “Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde” as Stevenson’s father owned furniture made by William Brodie and Stevenson was fascinated by his story. During the 18th-century, Deacon Brodie was a skilled cabinet-maker, member of the Town Council and deacon of the Incorporation of Wrights and Masons. All in all, a very prominent and well thought of Edinburgh citizen. However, Brodie had several vices including a serious gambling habit that resulted in huge debts. His occupation and position in society allowed him access to some of the area’s finest buildings and he began a string of highly successful robberies. Brodie’s last crime was an armed raid on the Excise Office, then in Chessels Court. It went disastrously wrong and although Brodie escaped, he was later captured, brought to trial and hanged in 1788.
11.30am: Writers’ Museum & Makar’s Court
After breakfast, crossover the Royal Mile and head down the picturesque Lady Stair’s Close where you’ll find the Writers’ Museum, a museum that celebrates three of Scotland’s literary legends – Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. The fascinating museum is filled to the brim with portraits, rare books and personal objects allowing visitors a more intimate look into the lives of these well-known authors. A few noteworthy items include; Burns’ writing desk as well as a plaster cast of his skull, one of only three ever made; the printing press on which Scott’s Waverley Novels were first produced and a first edition of Scott’s novel Waverley; plus, a chest that belonged to the Stevenson family which was made by Deacon Brodie.
Another feature of Lady Stair’s Close is Makar Court, an evolving national literary monument where you can see some of the famous words of great Scottish writers inscribed on the flagstones.
12.30pm: Scottish Storytelling Centre
Make your way down the Royal Mile until you reach the Scottish Storytelling Centre. Opened in 2006, the Centre is dedicated to preserving Scotland’s stories and recounting them so that future generations have the opportunity to hear them. Their year-round programme includes regular storytelling nights, one-off performances and the annual Scottish International Storytelling Festival, one of Edinburgh’s 11 festivals and the largest of its kind in the world.
The Storytelling Café is located on the first floor of the Centre and offers views over Trunk’s Close’s charming garden. You can look forward to enjoying Scotland’s national dish for lunch as the cafe is currently hosting The Haggis Box which is known for its delicious Scottish street-food style with a twist (vegetarian and vegan haggis options available).
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2.30pm: Follow in the Footsteps of Claire and Jamie
As we make our way to our next stop, fans of Diana Gabaldon’s hugely successful “Outlander” series will be interested to learn that we’ll be passing a few sites which are either mentioned in the novels or featured in the TV adaptation. The first is Bakehouse Close which plays an important role in the third season of Outlander as it’s the site of Alexander Malcolm’s Print Shop in Carfax Close, where Claire and Jamie reunite after 20 years apart. The next stop is The World’s End pub (2-8 High Street) which is mentioned in the third Outlander book, Voyager. Lastly, the Signet Library’s (Parliament Square) impressive interiors starred as the Governor’s Jamaican mansion in season three.
3pm: Greyfriars Kirkyard
Our next stop brings us to Greyfriars Kirkyard. Just before you enter the Kirkyard, you’ll pass a bronze statue of Greyfriars Bobby. Bobby was a Skye Terrier and was looked after by a local policeman John Gray for the last two years of his life. After John Gray’s death, Bobby reportedly guarded his grave in the Kirkyard for 14 years. The charming tale has been the inspiration for numerous books and movies. In 1872, the bronze statue was erected and in 1981, a granite memorial grave was dedicated to Bobby which sits opposite the main gate of the Kirkyard. There's a sweet tradition where visitors find a stick and lay it on Bobby’s grave.
The Kirkyard is also a must for Potterheads! It is believed that various gravestones within Greyfriars Kirkyard inspired J.K. Rowling when naming characters for her hugely-popular “Harry Potter” series. One of the most popular graves is the grave of Tom Riddle. We wonder what Tom Riddle, who passed away in 1806, would make of the fact that one of the most famous villains in modern children’s literature was named after him. Other headstones that are said to have subconsciously inspired characters’ names include Cruikshanks (not quite spelt the same as the famous cat), Moodie (Alastor Moody), Scrymgeour (Rufus Scrimgeour), Potters and McGonagall (Head of Gryffindor). Furthermore, the Kirkyard is said to have been the inspiration behind the resting place of Harry’s parents. Another nearby Harry Potter attraction is The Elephant House, a cosy café where J.K. Rowling has admitted that she wrote sections of the Harry Potter novel. The only reason why a visit to the café wasn’t added as a food stop to this itinerary is that there was an unfortunate fire in 2021 and, at the time of writing, the café is yet to reopen.
4pm: In the Steps of Miss Jean Brodie
Let’s take a short walk to the Grassmarket. In the Middle Ages, the Grassmarket was the city’s trading quarter. Today, the area is filled with places to eat, drink, and stay plus a weekly market is still held here every Saturday. The area is linked with Dame Muriel Spark, an Edinburgh-born poet, novelist and essayist. Her famous Edinburgh-based classic “The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie” was inspired by her school years at James Gillespie's School for Girls. The Grassmarket and The Vennel steps, just off the Grassmarket, featured in a scene of the 1969 film version of “The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie” and in honour of Muriel Spark’s legacy and her 100th birthday, The Vennel was renamed “The Miss Jean Brodie Steps” in 2018.
4.30pm: A Mini Bookshop Crawl
A bookish day out in Edinburgh wouldn’t be complete without a trip to a bookshop and thankfully, there is a selection of second-hand bookshops just off the Grassmarket on West Port. The first you’ll come across is Armchair Books (72-74 West Port). With its maze-like layout, rows of bookshelves, and twinkly fairy lights, it’s not hard to see why it’s become a favourite among bibliophiles. A short walk from Armchair Books is Edinburgh Books (145-147 West Port), another fantastic second-hand bookshop. The bookshop consists of several rooms, all bursting at the seam with books of all genres. Slightly further along the street is Main Point Books (77 Bread Street) which is another haven for book lovers with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, a good selection of books from £1 to collectable old books and 19th-century prints.
5.30pm: A Tipple and a Good Book
After a day of exploring Old Town’s literary haunts, we’re sure you’ll be ready for a seat so why not pop into the White Hart Inn to enjoy a tipple and a good book? The White Hart Inn is one of the city’s oldest pubs with rich literary connections. Scotland's National Bard, Robert Burns stayed at the White Hart Inn in 1791 on his last visit to Edinburgh, where he parted ways with his love, Nancy, and was inspired to write the poem “Ae Fond Kiss”. In 1803, William and Dorothy Wordsworth stayed here while visiting Sir Walter Scott. Furthermore, the infamous murderers, Burke and Hare – who have inspired countless stories over the years – were regulars at the bar.
7pm: An Adventurous Dinner
If you have the energy and are up for a bit of an adventure, our recommendation takes you out of the city centre to South Queensferry for dinner. The Hawes Inn (7 Newhalls Road) is an old country pub that sits beneath the Forth Rail Bridge in South Queensferry. A visit to the inn will be of particular interest to Robert Louis Stevenson fans as Stevenson was known to visit The Hawes Inn when he would canoe to South Queensferry via Cramond with his friends. In 1886, when Stevenson was staying in room number 13 of the Hawes Inn, it is believed that the seaside setting inspired him to begin writing his novel ‘Kidnapped’. In fact, the Hawes Inn features in the novel as the place where the kidnapping of the hero, David Balfour, was arranged. Today, there’s still the option to stay at The Hawes Inn plus there’s a restaurant which serves seasonal pub food with a modern twist.
The closest train station to the Hawes Inn is Dalmeny and a train from Edinburgh Waverley will take around 15-minutes to reach Dalmeny. From there, it’s roughly a 10-minute walk to the Hawes Inn.
If you’d prefer to stay in the city centre for dinner, there are a range of wonderful restaurants in the Grassmarket to choose from.
9am: Breakfast at Papii
Located in Edinburgh’s New Town, Papii is a homely neighbourhood café that offers a scrumptious range of breakfast, brunch and lunch. One of its specialities being its homemade buttermilk waffles that come with a range of topping options from banana, honey & cream to crispy bacon with Maple syrup. There are various other breakfast options including eggs benedict, breakfast rolls, yoghurt with granola and more. The café doesn’t have any literary ties but we think it’s a cosy spot to start your day with your current read.
10am: Morning Walk Through Princes Street Gardens
Princes Street Gardens sits at the heart of Edinburgh’s city centre stretching out over 37 acres. As you walk through the gardens, you’ll notice that it’s divided into two parts by The Mound, an artificial hill that connects Edinburgh’s Old and New Town, which are called East and West Princes Street Gardens. The gardens are of literary interest due to their connections with two literary heavyweights Dame Agatha Christie and Sir Walter Scott.
The Scott Monument is the focal point of East Princes Street Gardens and is dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, one of the most celebrated writers of his time. At just over 200 feet (61 metres) high, it's the second largest monument to a writer in the world. At the time of writing, the monument is yet to reopen but normally, visitors can climb to the top for views over the city and visit its small museum. A short walk from the Scott Monument is Edinburgh Waverley Station which is named after Sir Walter Scott’s novel Waverley. In 2014, Edinburgh celebrated the 200th anniversary of Sir Walter Scott's Waverley at the railway station by decorating it with quotes from Sir Walter's writings to mark the 1814 publication of what is commonly regarded as the western world's first historical novel.
Tucked away in West Princes Street Gardens is The Parish Church of St Cuthbert, where none other than the "Queen of Crime" herself, Dame Agatha Christie, married her second husband Max Mallowan. The chapel is open to the public and you’ll be able to view a copy of Christie’s marriage certificate.
11.30am: Note-Worthy New Town Addresses
On our way to lunch, there are a few interesting addresses to point out.
- Number 17 Heriot Row is known as the Stevenson House which was the childhood home of Robert Louis Stevenson from the age of six until he left in 1880. The Stevenson House is a typical Georgian New Town house which has always been in private ownership and is still used as a family home meaning you won’t be able to enter, however, we thought it was worth mentioning as the house also operates as a luxury B&B with two rooms to let. Whether you’re a Stevenson fan or not, this would make a very special place to stay if you’re visiting Edinburgh. As you’re passing the house, look out for an engraving on the sandstone “The Home of Robert Louis Stevenson 1857-1880".
- Sir J.M. Barrie was a Scottish novelist and playwright, best remembered as the creator of Peter Pan. Although born in Kirriemuir, Barrie lodged with Mrs Edward in a top flat at 3 Great King Street in Edinburgh’s New Town during 1879-1892 while he studied. As you walk past the flat, you’ll spot a plaque beside the door.
12pm: Lunch at The Cumberland Bar
Let’s head to another literary haunt for lunch. The Cumberland Bar is a cosy bar which is nestled amongst the residential streets of New Town. Fans of Alexander McCall-Smith’s serialised novel “44 Scotland Street” will recognise it as the favourite of characters Bruce, Pat, Stuart, Matthew, Angus Lordie and Cyril the dog. The bar is the perfect place to enjoy lunch during the warmer months as it has a secluded beer garden and you can cosy up by an open fire in the colder months.
After lunch, let’s continue with the “44 Scotland Street” tour by walking to nearby Scotland Street. Unfortunately, there isn’t a number 44, however, there is a charming Little Free Library outside 37 Scotland Street that is well worth visiting.
2pm: A Bookshop Crawl Through Stockbridge
A short walk will bring you to the village-like neighbourhood of Stockbridge. The charming neighbourhood sits beside the Water of Leith and is largely residential with a vibrant high street filled with independent shops. Among its selection of shops is a range of brilliant bookshops. Golden Hare Books (68 St Stephen Street) is an award-winning independent bookshop that stocks a thoughtfully-curated range of fiction, non-fiction and children's books. Across the road from Golden Hare Books is Ginger and Pickles Children's Bookshop (51 St Stephen Street), a cosy and quaint space designed especially with young readers in mind. A short distance from St Stephen Street, sitting on Stockbridge’s main street, is Rare Birds Book Shop (13 Raeburn Place) which has made it its mission to champion female authors. Lastly, Stockbridge is also known for its wide variety of charity shops including Oxfam Bookshop (25 Raeburn Place) and Shelter Bookshop (104 Raeburn Place).
4pm: Enjoy a Pint at Inspector Rebus’ Local
This one is especially for fans of Sir Ian Rankin’s well-loved Inspector Rebus series. The Oxford Bar (8 Young Street), or The Ox, will need no introduction to Rebus fans, however, if you haven’t heard of it, here’s a little background. Rankin has been a regular at the Oxford Bar since the mid-1980s, even holding his stag party there in 1986. The pub was once a favourite haunt with serving and retired cops and this is the reason why Rankin decided that the Ox would be Inspector Rebus’ pub of choice. The Ox remains a proper old-school pub with “no bells or whistles; just beer and conversation”, aptly described by Rankin.
6pm: Dine at the Favourite Haunt of ‘Rose St Poets’
It’s clear that Edinburgh’s pubs have been a source of inspiration for past and present writers as our dinner suggestion takes us to yet another Edinburgh pub, the Abbotsford Bar & Restaurant (3-5 Rose Street). Tucked away on Rose Street, the Abbotsford, originally the Abbotsford Arms, is named after Scottish historical novelist Sir Walter Scott’s baronial mansion in Roxburghshire. Unfortunately, the original building was demolished in 1902, however, Jenner’s & Co who owned the luxury department store Jenners, across the street, commissioned famed Pub & Brewery architect P.L. Henderson to design the new Abbotsford Bar. The design is an outstanding example of Edwardian pub design complete with a classic island bar carved from Spanish mahogany and an elegant Jacobean ceiling. The pub has long been a meeting place for actors, journalists, and writers. In the 1950’s and 60’s the bar became a favourite haunt of ‘Rose St Poets’ Hugh Macdiarmid, Sorley McLean and Sydney Goodsir Smith. In more recent times the pub has played host to the likes of comedians Sir Billy Connolly and Robbie Coltrane, political figures such as Alistair Darling and Gordon Brown and the authors Ian Rankin and Iain Banks. Today, the restaurant offers the best in Scottish gastro pub dining and stocks over 80 Malts for whisky lovers.
8pm: Late Night Book Shopping
There aren’t many bookshops that are open from 9am to 9pm daily in Scotland so if you’d like a short walk and the chance to visit one last bookshop, take a wander over to Topping & Company (2 Blenheim Place). Topping & Company are family-run independent booksellers with a small collection of wonderful bookshops dotted across the country. Their Edinburgh branch opened its doors in 2019 as the largest independent bookshop to open in Scotland for decades. Housed within a stunning Grade A-listed William Playfair building, Toppings offers customers two floors of book browsing heaven.
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