Scotland’s Quiet Season Begins

That trip took me to two places that underlined an important point I love making, what I consider the essence of real Scottish adventures. You don’t always need to visit the big-name attractions or spend lots of money to enjoy your time here. Scotland is blessed with fascinating places and spectacular views that are just out in the open, waiting for you to find them.

The first place that reminded me of this was Kilmartin Glen, somewhere that I’ve visited plenty of times, but it never gets old. Well, actually it stays old – very, very old! The glen is absolutely packed with standing stones, burial cairns and strange, swirling rock art that stretches back thousands of years!

Not everybody is as fascinated by ancient history, but they’re bound to be impressed by a walk up to Carnasserie Castle. Even at this time of year, the door is left unlocked for visitors to wander the ruined hall and climb up to the top of the still sturdy tower. Once home to the first Protestant Bishop of the Isles, he certainly knew how to pick a good view.

From Kilmartin we were heading to Islay, somewhere that I haven’t been able to spend as much time in as I’d like. It’s famous for whisky, with 10 currently working distilleries and more on the way – the majority of them notable for their smoky flavour. However, there’s a lot more to find on this island than just a tasty dram!

This was the main base of the Lords of the Isles, chiefs of Clan MacDonald who controlled vast swathes of Scotland’s west coast. From Finlaggan on Islay, they held parliaments with chiefs of other clans, issued proclamations and granted land, just like a king would do. While the visitor centre was closed, walking around the ruins of Finlaggan is just as atmospheric regardless.

That might have been where all the administration took place, but the MacDonald stronghold on the island was at Dunyvaig Castle. It’s a crumbling ruin today, but it still clings dramatically onto a cliff above crashing waves in the south of Islay.

It was “blowing a hoolie” when I approached and it took more than a little effort to stay upright in the wind. Even the seals were taking shelter, with about a dozen bobbing around, keeping a watchful eye on me, apart from one diving for fish. That was all the inspiration I needed to go looking for some lunch.

There’s one place I was very happy hadn’t closed for the winter yet – The Islay Oyster Shed on the shore of Loch Gruinart. The oysters are grown in the water right beside the café and thankfully they had a cooked option for me. As much as I like to fit in with the locals, I’ll take lemon and breadcrumbs over raw oysters any day!