Remote Retreats

Scotland is blessed with many truly wild and remote places, where it is possible to find yourself completely alone in the midst of epic, empty landscapes. Spending time in these amazing places gives us a chance to slow down, relax and reconnect with what is important; nature, friends, family or even ourselves. 

Opting to holiday somewhere remote often means forgoing the conveniences we have become accustomed to in our everyday lives. Unlike on a city break or a trip to a resort, there might not be a coffee shop around the corner or an all-night casino to entertain us into the wee hours. A remote stay does, however, offer benefits that bustling cities or lively resorts cannot, including ample time to rest and think. 

Finding the right accommodation is key to making the most of this precious downtime. Fortunately, Scotland’s remote accommodation options are many and varied, from bothies or bunkhouses kitted out with basic amenities, to luxury lodges providing full board in far-flung places. 

The best accommodation is designed to accentuate the simple pleasures of a remote stay without compromising on comfort and great hospitality. These places provide a cosy base for laid-back days indoors, whilst offering easy access to their scenic surroundings. They become a home away from home, with all the everyday essentials and no distractions to ensure you can properly switch off. 

Many of my favourite memories from trips to faraway locations are of playing board games by candlelight, savouring a dram next to a crackling fire, or simply gazing out of a window for hours on end watching rain showers chase each other across a deserted landscape. 

Of course, staying somewhere isolated or off grid also means you have instant access to the wilderness. It will be there, waiting, whenever you want to step outside to hike, forage, look for wildlife or gaze at the stars. It can also cater to more adventurous pursuits, like bagging a munro, sea swimming, paddle boarding or skiing. However you choose to spend this time, you will soon fall into a new, slower routine that is guaranteed to help banish thoughts of work and the stresses of everyday life. 

The combined impact of Brexit and the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic looks set to make staycations the preferred holiday option for UK holidaymakers in 2021. Last year saw visitors flock to many of Scotland’s popular destinations whenever travel restrictions were eased. Research conducted at the start of this year suggests that, once again, uncertainty over the safety of towns and cities will fuel demand for rural staycations. 

Perhaps this summer people will choose to venture further off the beaten track in search of muchneeded solitude and respite after a stressful and chaotic year. I, for one, can’t wait to escape to a remote bolthole for a few days, with no access to email, TV news or social media. All I’ll need is a window, a fireplace and a dram or two.

LUNDIES HOUSE

LOCATION: Tongue, Sutherland 
TYPE: Art hotel with bed & breakfast and a hearty supper for guests each evening 
SLEEPS: Four en-suite double rooms in the main house, a two-bedroom self-catering bothan and three cosy studio rooms in their converted steading

Lundies House is located in the village of Tongue on the route of the North Coast 500. The eight-room hotel occupies a former manse house and adjacent farm buildings, which have been sensitively converted in a ‘Scandi-Scot’ style. Guests are encouraged to head off into the wild landscape, take a dip in the ocean or read all day in the library before coming together for a hearty supper in the stylish dining room.

AIRSHIP 002

LOCATION: Drimnin, Morvern Peninsula 
TYPE: Self-catering insulated aluminium pod 
SLEEPS: Up to 2 guests

You might feel like you’re preparing for take off during a stay in this blimp-like capsule home designed by architect Roderick James and his interior designer wife, Amanda Markham. Full-height ‘dragonfly windows’ at either end of the innovative aluminium pod provide views of the Isle of Mull during the day and the stars at night. Better book fast though, as last year Airship 002 was Airbnb’s most wish-listed UK rental by people living in the UK.

DAVAAR ISLAND

LOCATION: Mull of Kintyre 
TYPE: Four self-catering holiday cottages & luxury wood cabins 
SLEEPS: Each sleeping up to 2 with the Lighthouse Cottage sleeping up to 4 guests

Escape to this privately owned island, where you can choose to stay in the former lighthouse keeper’s cottage, a converted wartime signal station, or one of two luxury glamping cabins. Davaar Island is situated off the coast of the Mull of Kintyre, so naturally all the accommodation offers spectacular sea views. In this remote spot you’re more likely to see otters, dolphins, golden eagles or minke whales during your stay than other people.

BROCKLOCH BOTHY

LOCATION: Dumfries and Galloway 
TYPE: Eco Bothy 
SLEEPS: There is a double bedroom for 2 guests with extra space for 2 adults or 2 children on a sofa bed

Everything you could need for a quiet and comfortable stay is squeezed into this compact timber-framed building situated on a 190-acre farm in Dumfries and Galloway. There’s no TV, though, as the Bothy’s solar panels only provide enough electricity to power low-voltage lights and a 12-volt charging socket. Instead, you can spend your time trying to glimpse the red kites, deer, red squirrels and badgers that regularly visit the farm.

THE DAIRY AT DENEND

LOCATION: Huntly, Aberdeenshire 
TYPE: Self catering bothy 
SLEEPS: Up to 4 guests, king-size bed and bunk beds

The Dairy at Denend is packed with quirky features to ensure a fun stay at this Aberdeenshire farm. A king-size bed looks out onto the countryside through an arched window and there is a wraparound deck for cooking on the outdoor grill. A roll-top bath, wood-fired hot tub, record player and a 1950s larder converted into a cocktail cabinet make The Dairy a home away from home for up to four guests.

GEARRANNAN BLACKHOUSE VILLAGE

LOCATION: Isle of Lewis 
TYPE: Self-catering traditional Blackhouses 
SLEEPS: Various choices available, up to 10 guests

Gearrannan is an authentic and well-preserved blackhouse village on the west coast of the Isle of Lewis. Guests can stay in several of the traditional buildings, which feature thatched roofs and double drystone walls to insulate them from the harsh Hebridean weather. The Gearrannan Hostel sleeps ten in bunk beds and has a family room for three. There are also houses suitable for smaller groups or families, with mod-cons such as underfloor heating, shower rooms and kitchenettes.

HMS OWL & NISSEN HUT

LOCATION: Fearn, Tain 
TYPE: Self-catering top-floor control tower or Nissen Hut 
SLEEPS: Up to 4 guests

It’s hard to believe that a formerly derelict control tower and Nissen hut on a World War II air base could now be among Scotland’s most stylish and cosy remote accommodation options. The owners of the HMS Owl airfield near Tain spent five years renovating the four-storey concrete tower, which retains its industrial character but now includes plenty of home comforts. The top-floor bedroom is available for guests to stay in, as is the Nissen hut, which provides self-contained accommodation with a large living space, outdoor deck and hot tub available on request.

SWEENEY’S BOTHY

LOCATION: Isle of Eigg 
TYPE: Self-catering bothy 
SLEEPS: Up to 2 guests

Sweeney’s Bothy is located on the community-owned Isle of Eigg and is operated by non-profit organisation The Bothy Project. Its elevated setting on a remote croft affords spectacular views across to the Isle of Rum through a full-height window. Used part-time as a space for artist residencies, the off-grid bothy with its woodburning stove and cosy reading nook is the perfect place for contemplation and inspiration.

MOLL COTTAGE

LOCATION: Isle of Skye 
TYPE: Historic keeper’s cottage 
SLEEPS: Up to 2 guests

This former lighthouse keeper’s cottage sits on a remote private shoreline on the east coast of the Isle of Skye. The cosy interior is decorated in an understated Scandinavian style, with a map and information wall to help you plan your activities. The house is within easy reach of Skye’s two main towns, but most visitors choose to spend their days kayaking, sea swimming and keeping warm by the log burner or outdoor fire pit.

INVERLONAN

LOCATION: Glenlonan 
TYPE: Self-catering bothies 
SLEEPS: Two bothies for up to 2 guests in each

Nestled between ancient oak trees on the shores of Loch Nell, Inverlonan’s architecturally designed cabins provide the ultimate getaway for fans of ‘rough luxury’. The two bothies, called ‘Uisge’ and ‘Beatha’, are beautifully detailed and each have a private deck, fire pit and outdoor wood-fired pizza oven. Spend your days hiking, wild swimming or fishing in the loch, and your evenings cooking meals on the fire using Inverlonan’s hampers filled with locally sourced produce.

IN THE TREES, MONACHYLE MHOR

LOCATION: Perthshire 
TYPE: Unique hotel experience 
SLEEPS: Up to 4 guests

This innovative ‘treehouse’ is located in the grounds of the Monachyle Mhor Hotel near Balquidder. The threestorey structure contains bedrooms on two levels and a living area in the top section, all with picture windows looking out onto the glen and nearby Loch Voil. If you fancy arriving in style, there’s the possibility to fly in by seaplane and touch down on the loch.

THE STILT HOUSE AT DOD MILL

LOCATION: Borders 
TYPE: Self-catering treehouse cabin 
SLEEPS: Up to 3 guests

Elevated above the banks of the Boondreigh River, the Stilt House at Dod Mill in the Borders provides pastoral views in all directions. There’s no Wi-Fi at the converted artist’s studio, but without the distractions of email or social media you’ll have more time for walks in the nearby Lammermuir Hills or relaxing by the mill pond. Guests can also take their time cooking meals using the Esse Bakeheart wood-burning stove or the outdoor fire pit.

words // Alyn Griffiths