From Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock, a Hidden Scotland guide

Exploring Scotland's Far Northwest

From Harris to Assynt, by ferry, carved stones and quiet roads.

Words by Graeme Johncock

Printed in Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock, a Hidden Scotland guidebook.

This month took me from windswept Harris to the remote edge of Assynt—boarding a storm-tossed ferry, standing beneath the carved stones of St Clements, and following quiet roads past mountains and castles to waterfalls few ever see.

Autumn has definitely arrived in Scotland and with it, cooler days and stormy weather. Regardless of that, this is always one of my favourite times to explore the country as places begin to get a little quieter. You might think it would be a good time to stick closer to home, but instead I’ve been as far away in the northwest as I could possibly get!

I was lucky to get the early ferry to the Isle of Harris on a particularly wild day. Almost every other ferry had been cancelled, proving how important it is to have a backup plan if you want to visit the Scottish islands. Fortunately, our boat managed to make the journey, although it was a little too rocky for me to enjoy my normal cooked breakfast from the canteen...