Sandaig – The Bay of Ring of Bright Water
About 2.6 miles on foot.
South of Glenelg, a forest path drops to a quiet bay of pale sand and low islands, with Skye across the water.
This is Sandaig, the place Gavin Maxwell called Camusfeàrna in Ring of Bright Water, where he lived with his otters. Walkhighlands gives the walk as 4.25 km there and back, and lunch by the fire at the Glenelg Inn is on the road out.
- Time
- An hour and a half to two hours. Walkhighlands gives the walk as 4.25 km there and back. A forest and shore walk with a climb back to the car.
- The path
- A forest track and path downhill to the shore, and the same climb back.
- Where to start
- The small forest car park above Sandaig, on the single-track coast road south of Glenelg towards Arnisdale.
- When to go
- All year in daylight; from November to January set off down the path by 1pm. The ferry from Skye runs from April to October only, so in winter come by road over Mam Ratagan.
- Dogs
- Under close control in the forest and on the shore.
- Children
- A walk for children who can manage the climb back; the bay has islands and a tide.
- Toilets
- None; the nearest are in Glenelg.
- Before you set out
- The Glenelg ferry from Skye runs from April to October only; the road over the Mam Ratagan pass from Shiel Bridge is open all year and is steep single track with hairpin bends.
The walk
Park at the small forest car park above Sandaig, on the single-track coast road that runs south from Glenelg towards Arnisdale. From there a forest track and path lead down to the sea. Walkhighlands gives the walk as 4.25 km there and back and allows an hour and a half to two hours. It's downhill all the way out, so keep something back for the climb home. At the bottom is a bay of pale sand and low grassy islands, looking across the Sound of Sleat to Skye.
Gavin Maxwell called it Camusfeàrna in Ring of Bright Water, his book of 1960 about living here with his otters. He used the house from 1948 until it burned down in January 1968. Nothing of it is left. A boulder marks the place, and his ashes lie beneath it. It's a quiet spot that means a great deal to many readers, so treat it gently.
There are no toilets and nothing to buy, and the hills around are stalked for deer in autumn and winter, so keep to the path. From November the only way to Glenelg is by road: leave the A87 at Shiel Bridge and take the single-track road over the Mam Ratagan pass, which is steep, with tight hairpin bends. The little ferry from Skye runs from April to October only. From November to January, set off down the path by 1pm.
If it rains
The forest gives a little shelter on the way down, but the bay is open to the weather and the path is muddy after rain. On a wet day, go straight to the fire at the Glenelg Inn and keep the walk for a dry one.
Afterwards
10 min by car
Glenelg Inn
Lunch
The Glenelg Inn is in the village, 10 minutes' drive north of the car park, a traditional Highland inn with log fires and a garden that looks over the Sound of Sleat to Skye. Lunch is served from 12.30pm, with last orders at 3pm, so a morning walk to Sandaig leaves you in good time for it. The kitchen cooks local produce from land and sea. Dinner is from 6pm to 8.30pm, and for that you must book. In the quiet months, ring 01599 522273 before you set out to be sure the kitchen is open. Over Christmas and New Year, check before going.
Before you go
Book accommodation nearby
If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.
The nearest of ours is Kinloch Lodge, 7 miles away.
Then Eilean Sionnach Lighthouse Cottage, 8 miles away. Sleeps 8.
Booking is essential for dinner.
Where to eat
Glenelg Inn, the village inn at Glenelg.
For further reading, before you go.
Photographs by Debra (Varis Holiday House) and Chris Coldwell via Google