Travelling Around Loch Fyne
Written by Graeme Johncock
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Scotland is blessed with hundreds of beautiful lochs of all shapes and sizes, but most visitors only ever see a small part of them. There are often one or two big attractions that get all of the attention, with amazing sites on the quieter banks quietly forgotten. Loch Fyne is a perfect example that taught me to take my time and really explore.
Inveraray
The perfect place to start any journey around Loch Fyne is Inveraray, a hub for the local area full of perfectly ordered white-washed buildings. The town was rebuilt by the Duke of Argyll in the 18th century, moved from the grounds of Inveraray Castle. You’ll find independent gift shops, a great flat white from Campbell’s Coffee and delicious cakes from Brambles. If it’s not too early, Loch Fyne whiskies has a huge selection to choose from!
Inveraray Castle
No visit to Inveraray is complete without seeing Inveraray Castle. Still home to the Duke of Argyll, Chief of Clan Campbell, its green walls and conical turrets look like something from a fairytale. Inside, you can learn about the ghostly harp player, learn about the Campbell’s history or see Rob Roy’s sporran. Even if you don’t go into the castle itself, it’s worth heading up the driveway to admire this grand home from the outside.
Tinker’s Heart
Around the northern end of the sea loch, easily missed in a field, is the Tinker’s Heart. This is the only permanent memorial to Scotland’s traveller community, taking the form of stones set in a heart-shape. It’s origins are shrouded in mystery, but over the last few centuries, it’s become an important place for local weddings, christenings and memorials.
Old Castle Lachlan
In sharp contrast to elaborate Inveraray, Old Castle Lachlan is a solid, yet crumbling, defensive stronghold looming above Loch Fyne. Once the bustling home of Clan MacLachlan, now it’s a picturesque and peaceful ruin. Dating back to the 15th century, there’s something about this place that feels incredibly special.
The Chief of the MacLachlans marched off to join the Jacobites in 1745, even though a friendly Brownie warned him that it would be his downfall. Sadly, the chief was killed and his home later destroyed by government warships. He is one of the few chiefs not buried in nearby Kilmorie graveyard.
Kilfinan
It’s easy to drive straight through Kilfinan without ever realising. That’s exactly what I did the first time I travelled this side of Loch Fyne, before a sixth sense told me to turn around. I’m glad I did, since this unassuming wee spot is packed with interesting stories. The prefix Kil- indicates an old church and round the back of St Finan’s you’ll find the Lamont Burial Aisle full of interesting carved gravestones. Up some steps takes you into a small museum packed with tales of local people, including the MacEwans of Otter. It’s not a big, flashy place, but you’ll be glad you stopped.
Lunch At The Oystercatcher
I have no doubt that if the Oystercatcher was somewhere more central then it would be overrun. This quiet spot at Otter Ferry serves up some of the best seafood that I’ve ever eaten and it’s almost worth planning your whole day just around stopping here!
Tarbert Castle
Standing proud above the town, but somehow mostly masked from view, stands Tarbert Castle. Only a small remnant remains of what was once an enormous royal fortress, guarding not just passage up Loch Fyne, but also across land. The name Tarbert literally means “Drag Boat” and its where sailors could drag their vessels across a narrow strip of land to save travelling all the way round Kintyre! The castle has a long history, but most people climb up here just for the view. Be aware that there are usually sheep roaming, so keep dogs on leads.
The Egg Shed at Ardrishaig
Crarae Garden
End the day with a peaceful wander around Crarae Garden, run by the National Trust for Scotland. This small hillside is packed with exotic trees, tumbling waterfalls and unusual plants, including 600 types of rhododendrons and azaleas! One of the more unusual things to find in the very centre of this sculpted garden is the remains of a Neolithic burial cairn!
Portavadie Ferry To Tarbert
Since Loch Fyne is a sea loch, you’ll need the Calmac ferry to take you to the other side. You can buy tickets in advance, but there’s no need to book a specific sailing time as they last all day. It takes around 25 minutes and the views are fantastic.
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