Begin in Tarbert

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Tarbert is the main settlement on the Isle of Harris, where most visitors arrive by ferry and that goes a small way to explaining the name. Tarbert literally means “drag boat” and centuries ago, sailors would rather drag their vessels across this narrow point than sail all the way around the island! It’s somewhere most people will begin a day around Harris and if you’re looking for a morning coffee then look no further than the Loomshed Deli!

Nisabost Beach & MacLeod’s Stone

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Driving through the rugged landscape of Harris is an attraction in itself, almost like you’re on another planet. Eventually, the rock gives way to the sea and you’ll arrive at a parking spot beside Nisabost Beach. Keep your eyes open for cows as you walk along the sand, but the real highlight comes after a short hike. 

On a grassy hill above the beach, keeping watch across the waves crashing below, stands MacLeod’s Stone. Raised a few thousand years ago, it far predates Clan MacLeod and nobody knows for sure where it gets the name. As well as a mystery to ponder, it’s a wonder to marvel at, covered in moss and soaring around 3 metres high!

St Clement’s Church, Rodel

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At almost the southern tip of Harris lies one of my favourite places on the island, but somehow one of the least appreciated – St Clement’s Church at Rodel. Built in the early 1500s by Alasdair Crotach MacLeod, the 8th Clan Chief, it’s known as the best piece of medieval architecture in the Outer Hebrides. 

Step inside and soak up the atmosphere, admiring Alasdair’s carved effigy, kitted out in full armour, lying in his elaborate tomb. Two other MacLeod chiefs were buried in this special spot, but the church was soon abandoned after the religious Reformation in the mid-16th century. It’s a special spot where you can really feel the history

Granny Annie’s

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On your way back north, make sure to stop in at Granny Annie’s, a small shop tacked onto the side of a house. It’s easily missed but well worth the visit, full of tweed, gifts, curios and vintage goods. Just make sure to keep kids away from the corner full of rude words and sweary slogans...

Lunch at Talla na Mara

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Talla na Mara, meaning Hall of the Sea, is easily my favourite place to eat in Harris. It’s a community café serving up soup, sandwiches and great coffee. The views out to sea are spectacular and it makes a good shelter when the weather isn’t too friendly. Next door, you’ll find a few studios for local creatives, with incredible art for sale to make the perfect memento.

Luskentyre Beach

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Harris might not just be about beaches, but you’d be missing out if you didn’t take the time to enjoy some of the sandy coastline. Luskentyre is probably the most famous on the island and once you’ve walked along the short track from the car park, you can see why. 

The white sand seems to stretch away forever while in the distance loom the hills of Harris across the waves. No matter what the weather is like, calm and sunny or wild and stormy, it’s a truly incredible location. There are spectacular views from the top of the low hill behind the beach, but be careful not to damage the sensitive machair grassland.

Harris Tweed Shop in Tarbert

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Back in Tarbert, take the time to visit the Harris Tweed shops – one sells lengths of the fabric while the other has products made from it. Harris Tweed is an icon of the entire Outer Hebrides and an important part of the local economy. By law, it has to be made from virgin wool in an islander’s home under their own power. If you see the Orb mark then you know it’s real Harris Tweed and that you’re getting something made by a true craftsperson.

Isle of Harris Distillery

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There’s no better way to end the day than with a dram and no better place to do that than at the Isle of Harris Distillery.  Whether you’re a fan of Harris Gin or one of their Hearach whiskies, they’re more than happy to help you out. If you’re lucky, the distillery might even be having one of their social ceilidhs to finish your trip around Harris in truly spectacular style!