Portpatrick – the Cliff Path to Killantringan Lighthouse
About 6.2 miles on foot.
The Southern Upland Way sets off on its long road east from Portpatrick's harbour, and its first miles, along the cliffs of the Rhins, make a fine day's walk on their own.
This loop follows it north past two hidden bays to Killantringan Lighthouse on Black Head, then comes back over the farmland by a quiet road, about ten kilometres in all. It suits fit walkers with good boots, and it ends with a late lunch on Portpatrick's harbour front.
- Time
- The walk starts and ends here: allow three and a half hours for the 10km loop, by the council's leaflet.
- The path
- The harbour front is level; the coast path starts up steps to the cliff top, with a stile, kissing gates and cattle grids beyond.
- Where to start
- Free parking on the seafront round the community-owned harbour.
- Set off
- The walk starts at the north end of the harbour, towards the lifeboat station, at the Southern Upland Way's board.
- When to go
- All year in daylight and settled weather: the loop takes about three and a half hours; on short winter days set off by 11am.
- Dogs
- Keep a dog under close control on the walk, and on a lead among the sheep on the moor.
- Children
- The harbour front is easy going; the cliff walk beyond suits older children who walk well, held close at the edges.
- Toilets
- Public toilets in the village.
- Before you set out
- The loop is 10km, graded moderate to strenuous: on short winter days, set off by 11am to finish the road back in daylight.
The walk
Park for free on the seafront round Portpatrick's harbour, and use the public toilets in the village before you go. The walk starts at the north end of the harbour, towards the lifeboat station, where a board marks the start of the Southern Upland Way, the coast-to-coast path that runs 340 kilometres from here to Cockburnspath.
Dumfries and Galloway Council's leaflet gives the whole loop as 10 kilometres, or 6 miles, and says to allow three and a half hours. It's graded moderate to strenuous, on cliff paths, grass and tracks that are soft in places, then a minor road and pavement, with steps, a stile, kissing gates and cattle grids.
Wear boots, keep a dog under close control, and on short winter days set off by 11am so the road back is walked in daylight.
If it rains
The cliff path is no place in heavy rain or a gale: the edges are sheer and the steep path out of Sandeel Bay turns slippery. On a wild day keep to Portpatrick's harbour front, with lunch at the Harbour House in its conservatory, and save the walk for a settled one.
Along the way
About 57 min on foot
Killantringan Lighthouse and Bay
A shop
The Way climbs steps onto the cliff top, with Ireland in view across the sea on a clear day. The path drops to Port Mora, known locally as Sandeel Bay, a little sandy bay with caves in its cliffs, and leaves it at the north end by a steep path in the rocks. Round the next headland is Port Kale, where the white double-octagon cable house of 1852 marks the first successful telegraph cable across the Irish Sea; on a calm day, look for grey seals in the inlet. From there the Way crosses open moor to Killantringan Lighthouse, about 3 miles from the harbour by the coastal path. The lighthouse engineer David Alan Stevenson designed it, and it was first lit in 1900; it was switched off in 2005 and is now a private house, so admire it from outside. At low tide the remains of the Craigantlet, a container ship wrecked in 1982, show on the rocks below. Sheep graze the moor, so keep a dog on a lead there. In spring and summer kittiwakes and fulmars nest on the cliffs. The edges are sheer and unfenced: keep to the path, and leave this part for another day in a gale or heavy rain.
About 56 min on foot
Harbour House Hotel
Lunch
From the lighthouse the loop leaves the Southern Upland Way and comes back to Portpatrick along the lighthouse road and the B738, through the farmland. It's a quiet road, but walk in single file and take care on it. Lunch is at the Harbour House Hotel, the long white building on the harbour front, which serves food every day from 10am to 9pm, so a late lunch is no trouble. Eat in the sea-facing conservatory, the bar or the lounge: fresh local seafood is the thing to have, there's a vegan menu, and dogs are welcome in the bar and lounge. If it's busy, the Port Pantry a few doors along does lunches, cakes and scones, usually until 4pm.
Before you go
Book accommodation nearby
If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.
Where to eat
The Port Pantry, Portpatrick, a café in Stranraer.
For further reading, before you go.