Ten tips for your first trip to Shetland

Shetland is easily one of the best places in Scotland to escape from it all and lose yourself in the landscape, the people and the culture. For those wishing to escape to the UK’s most northerly reaches, here are a few tips for making sure your adventure runs smoothly.

Islands, by their nature, are limited in capacity by the number of people who can fit on an aeroplane or board a ferry. While this is great – it means that there aren’t thousands of other people jostling for space at the beauty spots – it does mean that a little prior planning is required.

The overnight passenger ferry departs from Aberdeen and Lerwick every evening on the 12-14 hour crossing to and from Shetland, and bookings can be made in advance, 24 hours a day, online or over the phone. Cabin and vehicle space is limited, so advance booking is recommended to secure a space. Bookings can be made via www.northlinkferries.co.uk.

Flights to and from Shetland are operated by Loganair and depart to and from Sumburgh, Aberdeen, Inverness, Edinburgh, Glasgow and Kirkwall. Keep an eye out for exclusive offers and sales, and bear in mind that flights during peak times, or major events such as Up Helly Aa, book up quickly. Bookings can be made via https://www.loganair.co.uk/.

One of the most challenging aspects of living on an island or visiting one is ensuring that all the connections to reach the final destination marry up smoothly. Often, overnight stays in airport cities and ferry ports are necessary when travelling to and from Shetland. This adds an extra expense – and time – to the journey, so it’s worth doing some additional research about what the best city to fly into may be. For example, it may be cheaper to fly to Glasgow and then to Shetland, but if the flights don’t connect with an onward flight to Shetland, you may have to spend the night in an airport hotel. It may be the case that a flight to Aberdeen will connect easier with the boat or onward plane. These are just examples, but it is worth pricing up every available option.

It’s also worth bearing in mind that you should allow some ‘wiggle room’ if you have train, plane or bus connections to meet. The weather often delays both the boat and plane. This can mean that they arrive at their destination later than anticipated. Cancellations can’t be avoided but, allowing a few extra hours on either side means that short delays won’t throw your onward itinerary into chaos.

Everyone wants to get off on the right foot when visiting a destination and meeting the locals for the first time, and Shetland is no exception. There are a few things that you should avoid saying to locals to prevent causing them mild irritation and copious levels of eye-rolling.

Never say that you are ‘on Shetland’ or ‘on Unst’. Shetlanders can’t abide it (even if it is grammatically correct). Just bear in mind that when visiting Shetland and any of its islands, you are ‘in Shetland’, or you are ‘in Unst’, never ‘on’.

Another thing that will raise the hackles of locals is describing the islands as ‘the Shetlands’. It’s never the Shetlands; it’s just Shetland or the Shetland Isles – but never ‘the Shetlands’.

Don’t worry though, if these slips do happen, you’ll be forgiven. Shetlanders are a friendly bunch and will likely smile sweetly – behind gritted teeth – and correct you with a knowing smile of sympathy at your error.

What do you wear in a climate that has four seasons in one day? Most people visiting Shetland will have questions about what they need to pack and prepare for their trip. Basically, you should prepare for every weather-related eventuality (even in summer). The following should be added to your packing list:

Lots of layers

A windproof outer layer

A lightweight waterproof outer layer

A warm, all-weather jacket

Woollens – they keep you warm when it’s cold and cool when it’s warm.

Hiking trainers or boots – or both

Thermals – these also help keep the wind out

Extra socks – when walking on boggy, damp ground, these are a necessity

Midge spray

Sunscreen

And before anyone asks, yes, I have worn thermals in July.

Is there anything I won’t need?

You won’t need an umbrella. Wind usually accompanies rain, and even in the summer months, there is usually a gentle breeze. The average wind speed is a force four (13-18 mph), and if we compare this to the fact that most outdoor umbrellas cannot withstand the pressure from a 20 mph wind, it’s little wonder that you never see an islander with an umbrella.

The staff in the Tourist Office know everything that’s happening in the isles, they also understand what you need to see and do while you’re in Shetland – even if you don’t. They can also advise on trips and tours if you haven’t pre-booked them before you arrive. However, if you do have a wishlist, it’s worth booking a few excursions before you go to avoid disappointment if they’re fully booked – particularly during the busy summer months.

It’s worth reading beyond the guidebook before you travel to Shetland, as this gives you a chance to develop a deeper understanding of the unique culture and landscape before you arrive. Whether you read online blogs or books, it’s worth getting under the skin before you come. You will find good blogs about Shetland on shetland.org, NorthLink Ferries and Shetland with Laurie.

In terms of books, the Shetland Times Bookshop publishes a range of island books to inspire your visit, including the Shetland Dictionary, which will help you with the dialect.

When visiting, it’s worth carrying an OS map and the locally published pocket guides to Shetland Summer Birds and Shetland Flowers.

Locals don’t eat out every night, and neither should you. Visit the local shops, fishmongers and butcher shops and sample some of the local produce. Buy a cookbook from the local bookshop and try a local recipe. Look out for small community-produced cookbooks in rural shops – these are usually produced to raise money for charity and contain wonderful recipes. Taste of Shetland has many locally-inspired recipes and a comprehensive list of local producers – some of which you can visit – on their website.

There is no shortage of fantastic walking options in Shetland, and these are all well-documented, but why not go off-piste and explore a lesser-known area? If you see a road you fancy taking, do it, park up and get out for a walk – every corner is beautiful in its own way, and going off the beaten path means that you are less likely to meet other people. Remember to check the Scottish Outdoor Access Code before setting off.

Shetland Islands Council operates nine inter-island ferries that travel between some of Shetland’s inhabited islands. Sixteen of Shetland’s hundred or so islands are inhabited, and each one has something to see and do. The ferries – subsidised by the council – are cheap, easy to book and give you a real sense of ‘exploring’. Each island has its own distinct feel, and it’s worth taking the time to explore one or more of them while you’re here. Booking the inter-island ferries is not essential but is recommended during peak season.