Beach bagging in Shetland’s West Mainland

A guide to the beaches of Shetland’s West Mainland.

Shetland’s West Mainland is rugged and exposed, shaped by the mighty North Atlantic’s regular winter storms. The coastline has been moulded, altered and scarred by the sheer power of the ocean.

Burra is one of Shetland’s smaller islands and is connected to the Mainland by two land bridges. Meal beach lies just a mile from the main village of Hamnavoe and is a pristine white sand with a southerly aspect across the open ocean. With glistening sands and beautifully inviting turquoise waters, this is a popular spot for local families to enjoy a day at the beach when the temperature rises. From Meal, there is a fantastic coastal walk around Biargar, Pundsar, and on to the lighthouse at Fugla Ness before ambling back towards the Village of Hamnavoe for a refreshing ice cream overlooking the picturesque marina. The village of Hamnavoe grew around the fishing industry, and with lots of single-storey fishermen’s cottages, it is one of Shetland’s most picturesque villages.

Minn is also on Burra, at the south end of West Burra. The island itself forks near Bridge End, with one road heading to the East Isle and the other towards Papil in the west. Minn is right at the end of the road and is sometimes incorrectly referred to as Bannaminn, much to locals’ disdain. The beach itself is an impressive tombolo, with one side harbouring white sands within an enclosed and sheltered bay and the other made up of large beach boulders with views across to the dominating Clift Hills to the east. From Minn, a walk around the Ketlaness headland is unmissable, especially in June as a riot of thrift, known locally as sea pinks, carpets the point in bright candyfloss pink.

Heading to the westernmost point of Mainland Shetland takes you to the small village of Sandness. About an hour’s drive from Lerwick through winding open moorland, the village is a welcome sight after a long drive that weaves through pretty lochs and expanses of peatland. Norby Beach looks across the tidal Sound of Papa towards the island of Papa Stour and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), along with much of the coastline, including the picturesque Melby area, for its geological and ecological importance. The sandy beaches of Norby and Melby lie close to one another and are a fantastic place to spot wildlife and enjoy a picnic. Be aware that the sea in this area is very tidal and swimming is not advised.

Sticking to the heart of the West Mainland and a few miles from Sandness, the Dale of Walls, or Waas if you are a local, is a lush little valley tucked into the landscape a few miles from the main village of Walls. For this beach, park at Netherdale or take the dirt track in the road to the left (before Netherdale) and park at the Voe of Dale (Dale o’ Waas beach). The Voe of Dale is one of the only suitable places in the area to draw up a boat, and at the head of the voe, above the beach, there are the remains of boat noosts (hollows in the landscape used to haul up boats to secure them over winter). This was a haaf (deep-sea) fishing station in the 19th-century, with good access to rich, offshore fishing grounds. The beach itself is a stony beach with extensive views across the open North Atlantic towards the most westerly of Shetland’s islands, Foula. From here, a walk to Deepdale is well worth the effort.

Similarly, this walk can be done from Huxter in Sandness. Following the rugged and sea-beaten coastline north, the impressive Bay of Deepdale lies halfway between the Dale of Walls and Sandness. Deepdale is imposing and sheer, with steep cliffs falling into the sea onto a gravelly beach below. Extreme care must be taken if attempting to go down to the beach. It is possible but is not for the faint of heart or those who suffer from vertigo, and access can be gained via a rope down the cliffs.