St Ninian's – a Wood-Fired Sauna Above the Tombolo
A few hours.
The route
Haar Sauna's two wood-fired saunas stand just above St Ninian's beach in the South Mainland, looking straight down on the white sand tombolo that joins St Ninian's Isle to Shetland.
Sit in the heat, run down for a dip in the sea or just cool off in the wind, then drive north to lunch at Da Moors Café in Cunningsburgh. It's a wild, bracing morning for anyone over eight who likes the cold.
Before you go
Book a session at Haar Sauna's St Ninian's saunas online before you go (no bookings through social media): community sessions from £8 at the time of writing, an hour and 20 minutes, no under-8s; arrive 10 minutes early in your swimwear.
The day
St Ninian's
Wood-fired heat above a white sand tombolo, a cold dip in clear water, and a warm lunch on the way back north.
About three hours
Haar Sauna, St Ninian's
Haar Sauna's two saunas sit just above St Ninian's beach at the end of the road beyond Bigton, side by side over the tombolo: a blue one for up to eight and a green one for up to five. Park in the free parking nearby, then it's a short walk; allow an extra 10 minutes, especially in winter. Book online before you go, as there are no bookings through social media: a community session of an hour and 20 minutes is from £8 at the time of writing, and the private sessions are £125 and £135. Come in your swimwear, as there's nowhere to change, and bring two towels, water, beach shoes and warm clothes for after. Nobody under eight may use the sauna. The cold plunge is the sea below, and Haar is plain that sea swimming is entirely at your own risk: conditions change quickly, so only go in if you feel confident, and learn to float. If you have time before or after, walk out across the sand of the tombolo to St Ninian's Isle in daylight; keep back from the cliffs on the isle.
18 min by car
Da Moors Café
Lunch
Lunch is at Da Moors Café in Cunningsburgh, about 18 minutes' drive north beside the A970 towards Lerwick, with parking at the door. It opened in 2026 on the site of the old Mackenzie's Farm Shop. Hot breakfasts and filled rolls come first, then soup, toasties, paninis, baked tatties and quiche until 2.30pm, Monday to Saturday. It's shut on Sundays, so on a Sunday eat in Lerwick instead.
If it rains
The sauna is warm in any weather and the café is indoors; leave the tombolo walk for a calm, dry spell, as the sea can wash over it in winter storms.
Photographs by Lasantha Arachchige (Lasantha Vidana Arachchi) and Bob & Liz Fiorini via Google