Coroghon – A Black Beach Under a Prison Rock

The walk

The walk starts at the Canna Community Shop, on the harbour road a short way from the pier. No visitor's car goes to Canna, so leave it at Mallaig: the West Bay car park charges and is five minutes' walk from the ferry, and the East Bay one is free and 10 to 15 minutes away. Coroghon is at the east end of the harbour, about a third of a mile from the shop. A rough track climbs between farm walls from the bend in the road to an old barn. Allow an hour with time on the sand. Beyond the barn a rock stack stands at the end of the bay, with the ruin of a small tower high on it. Coroghon Castle, as it is called, dates from the 17th century. The island's story is that Marion Macleod was shut up in it late in that century for being unfaithful to her husband, though it may only have been a beacon. Don't try to climb the stack, as the ruin is unsafe.

Below the barn is a quiet beach of black volcanic sand. At low tide the wet sand mirrors the stack and the pines beside it, and early and late in the day the low sun lights the rock. The track is rough, so wear boots. Seals pup on Canna in winter: keep well back from any on the shore, and keep dogs under close control. The toilets are at the Visitor Hub near the pier. Canna belongs to the National Trust for Scotland. Tighard Guest House asks for at least two nights and means to stay open all year. It cooks its guests a two-course dinner on a Tuesday and a Thursday, for £30, makes packed lunches and meets the ferry to carry luggage. Café Canna is shut until April and the campsite is shut for the winter.

The Canna Community Shop is open day and night, every day of the year, on an honesty system. Book a bed on the island before you book the boat, and bring food. On CalMac's winter timetable, from 19 October 2026 to 25 March 2027, the boat for Canna leaves Mallaig at 9.50am on a Tuesday and a Thursday and lands at 12.40pm. It sails again 20 minutes later, at 1pm, and is back at Mallaig at 3.50pm, so a winter visit means at least two nights, Tuesday to Thursday. A Sunday boat runs only if it is asked for on 0800 066 5000 by 4pm on the working day before: it leaves Mallaig at 9am, reaches Canna at 11.05am and leaves again at 1.25pm. No boat runs on Tuesday 1 December or Tuesday 2 February, nor on 25 December or 1 January. Book the crossing ahead: CalMac's Mallaig office, on 01687 310240, option 2, takes bookings until 4pm on the working day before, and foot passengers check in 20 minutes before the boat sails. Winter weather cancels sailings and can keep you on the island a night or two longer than you planned, so look at CalMac's service status page before you travel. From April to October, the island's own site says, Canna can be a day trip on a Wednesday or a Saturday.