A Day In St Andrews
Written by Graeme Johncock
You might know of St Andrews as “The Home of Golf”, but there’s a lot more here than an old ball and stick game. I grew up just a few miles away and love getting the chance to show people the other side of this wee Fife town. For centuries, it was Scotland’s main ecclesiastical centre, a major European pilgrimage site and you can still find history and beauty round every corner!
St Andrews Cathedral
St Andrews wouldn’t be what it is today if it wasn’t for the enormous St Andrews Cathedral. Even as a romantic ruin, it’s an incredible sight to behold with soaring towers still poking into the sky. Legend says that St Rule carried the bones of St Andrew here to keep them safe, founding a shrine that developed into the town. Pilgrims came from across Europe to this wee corner of Fife and it weathered storms and fires until the Reformation saw its demise in the 1500s. Wander the ruins and imagine how grand this incredible church by the sea would have once been and all the important people who would have spent time there.
Climb St Rule’s Tower
You can’t miss the odd-looking square tower inside the cathedral grounds. St Rule’s Tower happens to be even older than the cathedral and you can climb all 33 metres of it for spectacular views across the town! Be wary of anybody dressed in medieval robes though, it could well be the monk that haunts the tower. Thankfully, he’s a helpful ghost who likes to give struggling climbers a hand to the top of all those stairs!
St Andrews Castle
Part fortress, part bishop’s palace, the next logical place to visit is St Andrews Castle. This was where the main churchman of the cathedral spent most of their time, with a spectacular seaside view. Sadly, their holy status didn’t spare the castle from a history of violence. The most dramatic period in its history came in the mid-1500s, following the execution of a preacher named George Wishart by Cardinal David Beaton. Wishart’s friends disguised themselves as workmen, snuck inside the gate and quickly captured the castle. It took the government forces over a year to eventually remove the rebels! You can still enter a countermine dug beneath the street in defence of the castle as well as the initials GW outside the walls to remember the man that started it all.
Lunch At Forgans
Right in the centre of town, Forgans is a great spot for lunch, using lots of local ingredients. This was once a golf club factory, which is fitting for the town’s history, and there’s a great atmosphere inside!
Fisher & Donaldson’s
Make sure to leave room after your lunch for a local delicacy. Head over to Fisher & Donaldson’s, founded in 1919, and pick up a fudge doughnut. There’s no doubt in my mind that these are the best in Scotland!
University Quad
Not only was St Andrews the site of Scotland’s largest cathedral, this is also home to the oldest university! Founded in the early 1400s, it’s a huge part of the town’s identity and the campus is a beautiful spot to wander. The Quad is always a highlight and free to wander into for a look.
St Salvator’s Chapel
Don’t miss St Salvator’s Chapel and another set of initials set into the cobblestones outside. PH stands for Patrick Hamilton, another early preacher who was sentenced to death in St Andrews. Unfortunately for Patrick, the arrangements were badly rushed by officials. The freshly collected wood smouldered slowly, choking the preacher with smoke and the added gunpowder just added to the torment. He did eventually die, but his tormented face is said to have been etched into the very stone of St Salvator’s. Don’t tread on his initials while trying to get a glimpse though, it’s said to be terribly bad luck!
Old Course & Swilcan Bridge
While not everything in St Andrews is to do with golf, no trip is complete without taking a look at the famous Old Course. Known as the oldest still used golf course in the world, it’s a true pilgrimage site for all those who enjoy the sport. If you wait patiently enough beside the 18th tee, you can even rush onto the course for a quick picture on the iconic Swilcan Bridge once the players have moved on towards the green.
West Sands Beach
Finish your day at one of the best sandy beaches in Scotland with a walk on the West Sands. There are some spectacular views across to the town, with a series of spires peaking above the roofs. Famous for its role in the film Chariots of Fire, you’ll find locals out running, walking dogs or even swimming on a sunny day. Maybe I’m just lazy, but I much prefer to just grab an ice cream from Luvians and relax on the sand!
Sign in with Google
Sign in with Email