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Issue 13, the walk to the cabin

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The roads less travelled that take you to places that matter. The adventures that gather you up and sweep you away. The blend of the wild and the artistic that makes Scotland what it is. We'd love for you to join us.

Live from ScotlandVictoria Street, Edinburgh Cloudy in Edinburgh, and the sun sets at 17:55.Watch Scotland live
  1. The clocksWatch Scotland liveThe clocks go back on Sunday.
  2. Golden hourThe Old Man of StorrThe sun sets at The Old Man of Storr at 6.04pm this evening, and the sky is forecast to be clear.
  3. WildlifeOrkneyA common seal was seen near Thurso on Thursday.
  4. NewsOrkneyThe Pickaquoy Centre in Kirkwall is due to open its new mountain bike trails at the end of October or the start of November.
  5. WildlifeOrkneyGannets were seen near Kirkwall on Thursday.
Hidden Scotland

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Twice a year, in printMagazine What to see, do and eatPlaces Cottages, bothies and hotelsAccommodation Ready-made daysDays out Region by regionDestinations From £30 a yearJoin
Did you know

On the island of Barra, in the Outer Hebrides, scheduled passenger planes land on a beach, and the flight times move with the tide.

Barra Airport's three runways are marked out on the sand of Tràigh Mhòr, the beach known in English as the Cockle Strand, with wooden poles at each end. At high tide all three are under the sea, so the times of the flights to Glasgow change with the tide. Because the runways point three different ways, the little Twin Otter planes can almost always land into the wind. The first official service touched down on the sands in August 1936, and Barra is still the only scheduled beach runway in the world.

See Barra Airport · Outer Hebrides
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Just addedAdded yesterday

We've just added Mountain Momo to the website.

A plant-based Nepali restaurant on Dundee Terrace, at the west end of Fountainbridge, serving momos, dal bhat and thalis.

Find out more about Mountain Momo
Did you know

Skara Brae, a stone village on the Bay of Skaill in Orkney, was a thriving community before Stonehenge or the Egyptian pyramids were built.

People lived in the village from roughly 3180 BC to about 2500 BC. That is earlier than the Great Pyramid, built around 2560 BC, and earlier than the main building at Stonehenge, begun around 3000 BC. Once its people had gone, the village was lost from sight until a storm uncovered it in 1850. The houses still have their stone dressers and box-beds, and Historic Environment Scotland calls it the best-preserved Neolithic, or New Stone Age, settlement in Western Europe. Today you can walk among ten of its buildings and four of its passageways, five thousand years after they were built.

See Skara Brae · Orkney
PubsFor today's weatherLothianChampany InnRestaurantGlasgowInn DeepRestaurantAberdeenshireThe Creel InnRestaurantPlocktonPlockton InnRestaurantDumfries and GallowayThe Globe Inn, DumfriesRestaurantDumfries and GallowayThe Steamboat Inn, CarsethornRestaurant

A pint by the fire.

Pubs with good food, and the fire lit by October.

See all the pubs
From the magazineThe printed copy of Issue 13Issue 13Autumn / Winter 2026-27

Gretna Green, the Dumfries and Galloway village where blacksmiths once married runaway couples over the anvil, has a resident blacksmith again for the first time in more than 150 years.

Runaway couples were marrying here from as early as 1753, and the blacksmith, a trusted village figure, would hear their simple declaration and strike the anvil with his hammer, symbolically forging them together. Thousands were married that way until the law changed in 1940. Weddings at Gretna Green are led by a celebrant or registrar now, but they still centre on striking the anvil, and legend has it that touching the marriage anvil brings good fortune in matters of the heart. With the opening of the new Blacksmith's Forge, visitors can watch traditional blacksmithing, learn about the craft that put the village on the map and try it for themselves.

See Gretna Green · Dumfries and Galloway
Hidden Scotland, the magazineThe magazine

Issue 13

The autumn and winter issue is here.

Get Issue 13
WildlifeThis weekSeen 7 times · Ruchazie, GlasgowWhooper swanSeen 6 times · Hamilton GardensDipperSeen 5 times · East LothianPink-footed gooseSeen 3 times · DriftwoodGolden eagleSeen 3 timesGrey sealSeen 3 timesBeaverSeen twice · North BerwickGannetSeen twiceBarnacle gooseSeen twice · Argyll and Bute CouncilRed deerSeen oncePtarmiganSeen once · Dunain CottageRed kiteSeen onceMinke whaleSeen onceCommon sealSeen once · Highland CouncilPine martenSeen onceOtterSeen onceRed squirrelSeen onceMountain hareSeen once · HighlandBadgerSeen onceRed grouse

The wildlife people spotted in Scotland this week.

Whooper swans are big wild swans with lemon-yellow bills that come to Scotland's lochs and fields each autumn for the winter, and this week they were the animal reported most often in Scotland: 7 sightings, the latest near Ruchazie, Glasgow. These are the animals people have reported most in the last seven days, the most seen first. Every sighting is logged with a photograph or a recording on iNaturalist, the wildlife recording site, and each card opens them on its map.

Where to see wildlife in Scotland
Did you know

Scotland's national animal is the unicorn, and on the old Scottish royal arms two crowned unicorns hold up the shield, bound in golden chains.

The oldest surviving version of the arms with unicorns is a weather-worn carving above the gateway of Rothesay Castle, on the Isle of Bute, made no later than the reign of Robert III, which ended in 1406. In about 1484 James III went further and issued gold coins called the unicorn and the half-unicorn. The chain is usually read as a sign of royal strength: the unicorn was thought too wild for anyone to tame, and only a Scottish king was strong enough to hold it. You can still spot unicorns across the country, from the top of the Mercat Cross in Edinburgh to the gate of the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

Just addedAdded yesterday

We've just added Polentoni to the website.

An Italian bakery and kitchen on Easter Road, making takeaway sandwiches, small pizzas and cakes, open from breakfast until two.

Find out more about Polentoni
Did you know

Loch Ness, in the Highlands near Inverness, holds more water than all the lakes of England and Wales put together.

Loch Ness isn't the biggest loch in Scotland by area: that is Loch Lomond, at 71 square kilometres. What Loch Ness has is depth. It runs for about 37 kilometres and reaches around 230 metres at its deepest, so it holds 7,452 million cubic metres of water, more than any other loch in Scotland. The water is murky too, because of the peat in the soil around it. And for all that depth, it is not the deepest loch in the country: that is Loch Morar, further west, at 310 metres.

See Loch Ness · Inverness-shire
ClocksSunday

The clocks go back on Sunday.

On Sunday the sun sets at 4.28pm in Lerwick, 4.49pm in Inverness and 4.49pm in Edinburgh, an hour earlier by the clock than the day before. The mornings get the hour: sunrise in Edinburgh is at 7.03am. The change is at two in the morning.

Watch Scotland live
From the magazineThe printed copy of The Best of SkyeThe Best of Skye

The painter Ellis O'Connor works outdoors on the Isle of Skye in winter, sometimes in storms, so that the wind, rain and sea become part of each canvas.

Originally from Dundee, Ellis now has her studio at Drumfearn, near the southern edge of the island. She chases the movement of the weather with broad brush strokes and layered oils, and her canvases are large, abstract and expressive. Torrin, where mountain meets loch and the light can change by the minute, has become a personal touchstone, and it is where she watches the weather come through the valley. Her studio is by appointment only, often because she is out painting in the elements, but her prints and art cards are sold at Skye Gift Company in Broadford and Café Cuil in Carbost.

Read the full story in The Best of Skye
Shooting starsThis week

The Orionids are at their best this week.

They are dust left by Halley's Comet, and they come out of the sky near Orion. The moon is bright this year, so only the best of them will show. Find somewhere dark, lie back and look up; you need no telescope.

Watch Scotland live