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Issue 13, the walk to the cabin

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The roads less travelled that take you to places that matter. The adventures that gather you up and sweep you away. The blend of the wild and the artistic that makes Scotland what it is. We'd love for you to join us.

Live from ScotlandKinnoull Hill, Perth Damp in Perthshire, and the sun sets at 17:51.Watch Scotland live
  1. FoghornMull of Galloway LighthouseThe old foghorn at the Mull of Galloway is due to sound tomorrow.
  2. The clocksWatch Scotland liveThe clocks go back tonight.
  3. NewsOrkneyThe Pickaquoy Centre in Kirkwall is due to open its new mountain bike trails at the end of October or the start of November.
  4. Just openedCaithnessCastletown Mill in Caithness, built in 1818, is a whisky distillery now.
  5. On todaySutherlandDornoch Whisky Festival Grand Tasting is happening now.
Hidden Scotland

The places worth the journey, and the help to get there.

Twice a year, in printMagazine What to see, do and eatPlaces Cottages, bothies and hotelsAccommodation Ready-made daysDays out Region by regionDestinations From £30 a yearJoin
Did you know

On the island of Barra, in the Outer Hebrides, scheduled passenger planes land on a beach, and the flight times move with the tide.

Barra Airport's three runways are marked out on the sand of Tràigh Mhòr, the beach known in English as the Cockle Strand, with wooden poles at each end. At high tide all three are under the sea, so the times of the flights to Glasgow change with the tide. Because the runways point three different ways, the little Twin Otter planes can almost always land into the wind. The first official service touched down on the sands in August 1936, and Barra is still the only scheduled beach runway in the world.

See Barra Airport · Outer Hebrides
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Just addedAdded yesterday

We've just added the Haining to the website.

A Palladian mansion of 1794 above its own loch, in 160 acres of parkland and woods.

Find out more about the Haining
Did you know

Skara Brae, a stone village on the Bay of Skaill in Orkney, was a thriving community before Stonehenge or the Egyptian pyramids were built.

People lived in the village from roughly 3180 BC to about 2500 BC. That is earlier than the Great Pyramid, built around 2560 BC, and earlier than the main building at Stonehenge, begun around 3000 BC. Once its people had gone, the village was lost from sight until a storm uncovered it in 1850. The houses still have their stone dressers and box-beds, and Historic Environment Scotland calls it the best-preserved Neolithic, or New Stone Age, settlement in Western Europe. Today you can walk among ten of its buildings and four of its passageways, five thousand years after they were built.

See Skara Brae · Orkney
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TodayFor today's weatherPerthshireHotBoat Sauna, Taymouth MarinaActivityEdinburghEscape SaunaActivityAberdeenshireStravaig SaunasActivityAberdeenshireVinyasa YogaActivityThe Black IsleUnwind in the Wood-Fired SaunaActivityArgyll and ButePortavadie Gym & SpaActivity

Today calls for a sauna.

3° and cloudy across Scotland. Cold enough to want the heat of a sauna, and the swim after.

See them all
From the magazineThe printed copy of Issue 09Issue 09Autumn / Winter 2024-25

Kat Hill, a historian turned writer on the Isle of Skye, found the idea for her book 'Bothy' in the visitor book of a bothy beside Loch Etive.

Kat spent years as an academic historian of pre-modern religious communities before turning to the environment. On her first trip to Cadderlie bothy she walked along Loch Etive beneath wet trees and hazy sun. Inside she opened the visitor book, full of drawings, confessions and poems, and saw that there was something there. She went on to find old bothy books in Scotland's archives, and was drawn most to the 1920s and 1930s, when there is such joy on the page. Bothies are free and unlocked, with no running water or electricity. 'What's special about bothies is they don't prescribe what type of retreat you might seek or find. They wait unlocked'.

Read the full story in Issue 09
In Issue 13The magazine

Romantic Rituals

Rosie Steer explores the magical allure of a Scottish elopement, past and present.

Read it in Issue 13
WildlifeThis weekSeen 6 times · Hamilton GardensDipperSeen 5 times · Dumfries and GallowayWhooper swanSeen 3 times · DriftwoodGolden eagleSeen 3 times · John Muir WayPink-footed gooseSeen 3 timesBeaverSeen 3 times · KillinRed deerSeen twice · FortroseGannetSeen twice · AngusPine martenSeen twiceOtterSeen oncePtarmiganSeen once · Dunain CottageRed kiteSeen onceWhite-tailed eagleSeen once · Dumfries and GallowayBarnacle gooseSeen onceMinke whaleSeen onceGrey sealSeen onceRed squirrelSeen onceMountain hareSeen once · HighlandBadgerSeen onceRed grouse

The wildlife people spotted in Scotland this week.

The dipper is a small brown river bird with a white bib that walks underwater along the beds of fast rivers, hunting for insects, and this week the dipper was the animal reported most often in Scotland: 6 sightings, the latest near Hamilton Gardens, Glasgow. These are the animals people have reported most in the last seven days, the most seen first. Every sighting is logged with a photograph or a recording on iNaturalist, the wildlife recording site, and each card opens them on its map.

Where to see wildlife in Scotland
Did you know

Scotland's national animal is the unicorn, and on the old Scottish royal arms two crowned unicorns hold up the shield, bound in golden chains.

The oldest surviving version of the arms with unicorns is a weather-worn carving above the gateway of Rothesay Castle, on the Isle of Bute, made no later than the reign of Robert III, which ended in 1406. In about 1484 James III went further and issued gold coins called the unicorn and the half-unicorn. The chain is usually read as a sign of royal strength: the unicorn was thought too wild for anyone to tame, and only a Scottish king was strong enough to hold it. You can still spot unicorns across the country, from the top of the Mercat Cross in Edinburgh to the gate of the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

Just addedAdded yesterday

We've just added Cameron's Bakery to the website.

A Selkirk baker's that makes the town's own Selkirk Bannock, a round loaf rich with butter and sultanas.

Find out more about Cameron's Bakery
Did you know

Loch Ness, in the Highlands near Inverness, holds more water than all the lakes of England and Wales put together.

Loch Ness isn't the biggest loch in Scotland by area: that is Loch Lomond, at 71 square kilometres. What Loch Ness has is depth. It runs for about 37 kilometres and reaches around 230 metres at its deepest, so it holds 7,452 million cubic metres of water, more than any other loch in Scotland. The water is murky too, because of the peat in the soil around it. And for all that depth, it is not the deepest loch in the country: that is Loch Morar, further west, at 310 metres.

See Loch Ness · Inverness-shire
FoghornTomorrow

The old foghorn at the Mull of Galloway is due to sound tomorrow.

On a few Sundays a year the lighthouse at Scotland's most southerly point starts its old engines and blows the horn, and tomorrow is one of them. The exhibition is open from eleven until five. The lighthouse does not print the hour of the blast, the engines are old enough to refuse, and the horn is never blown in fog, so go hoping to hear it and not counting on it.

See Mull of Galloway Lighthouse
From the magazineThe printed copy of Issue 11Issue 11Autumn / Winter 2025–26

Robert Workman, a former PE teacher, sells reclaimed furniture and architectural salvage at Yard 97 near Perth, from a row of joined-up 1940s airfield buildings.

Robert's shopfitting and kitchen-making business began in 1989, and when he moved to Scotland from Twickenham he ran it at first from the back of a van. Six months later he took over one workshop, and over the years he gradually took in the buildings next door until the whole site was his. He had always sourced unusual pieces to go with his bespoke work, and that grew into a shop of its own. Yard 97 opened to the public in November 2022, in a large part of the warehouse. His first tip for treasure hunting is simple: 'Turn everything upside down three times'. Then check it for cracks, chips and woodworm.

Read the full story in Issue 11
ClocksTonight

The clocks go back tonight.

Tomorrow the sun sets at 4.28pm in Lerwick, 4.49pm in Inverness and 4.49pm in Edinburgh, an hour earlier by the clock than the day before. The mornings get the hour: sunrise in Edinburgh is at 7.03am. The change is at two in the morning.

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