Issue 13, the walk to the cabin

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The roads less travelled that take you to places that matter. The adventures that gather you up and sweep you away. The blend of the wild and the artistic that makes Scotland what it is. We'd love for you to join us.

Did you knowGraeme JohncockWritten byGraeme JohncockRead Graeme’s piece

Allan MacRuari, the cunning chief of Clanranald at Castle Tioram on Loch Moidart, in Lochaber, was a thorn in the side of every clan around him.

‘One day MacRuari was sailing out of Loch Moidart with just one boat and a handful of men when he saw 10 MacLean ships coming towards them. Knowing they didn’t stand a chance in a fight, Allan ordered his men to lay a plaid over him and the piper to play a lament. When the lead MacLean ship got closer, they were informed that the mighty Allan MacRuari had died and they were taking his body for burial on the Island of Iona.’

Graeme JohncockWritten byGraeme JohncockRead Graeme’s pieceSee Castle Tioram · Lochaber
WildlifeThis weekSeen 9 times · Ruchazie, GlasgowWhooper swanSeen 8 times · East LothianPink-footed gooseSeen 7 timesRed deerSeen 5 times · North BerwickGannetSeen 5 times · West Moulin RoadDipperSeen 4 timesCommon sealSeen 4 times · Highland CouncilPine martenSeen 4 timesBeaverSeen 4 timesRed squirrelSeen 3 timesBarnacle gooseSeen 3 timesGrey sealSeen twiceGolden eagleSeen twiceOtterSeen oncePtarmiganSeen onceWhite-tailed eagleSeen onceMountain hareSeen once · HighlandBadgerSeen onceRed grouse

The wildlife people spotted in Scotland this week.

Whooper swans are big wild swans with lemon-yellow bills that come to Scotland's lochs and fields each autumn for the winter, and this week they were the animal reported most often in Scotland: 9 sightings, the latest near Ruchazie, Glasgow. These are the animals people have reported most in the last seven days, the most seen first. Every sighting is logged with a photograph or a recording on iNaturalist, the wildlife recording site, and each card opens them on its map.

Where to see wildlife in Scotland
Did you know

Scotland's national animal is the unicorn, and on the old Scottish royal arms two crowned unicorns hold up the shield, bound in golden chains.

The oldest surviving version of the arms with unicorns is a weather-worn carving above the gateway of Rothesay Castle, on the Isle of Bute, made no later than the reign of Robert III, which ended in 1406. In about 1484 James III went further and issued gold coins called the unicorn and the half-unicorn. The chain is usually read as a sign of royal strength: the unicorn was thought too wild for anyone to tame, and only a Scottish king was strong enough to hold it. You can still spot unicorns across the country, from the top of the Mercat Cross in Edinburgh to the gate of the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

From the magazineThe printed copy of Issue 13Issue 13Autumn / Winter 2026-27

Alice Varley, a volunteer with the Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team, says rescue is like a team sport, except nobody knows when the matches will be.

Alice has been part of extreme Highland rescues for over six years, and the team atmosphere is crucial to what keeps her going. Lochaber is one of the highly specialised, technical teams that winch and stretcher people to safety from Ben Nevis, the UK's highest peak. She is also the mother of a toddler, and during her maternity leave Iain Murray, the team's leader, would come and chat to her at home. 'There was no pressure to come back, but I was still very much in the team, and that meant a lot to me'.

Read the full story in Issue 13